Ep. 149: Dr. Jared Vagy on Stretching, Prehab, and Other Hot Topics
For Dr. Jared Vagy's third appearance on the podcast, we decided to tackle a few hotly debated topics - things like stretching, prehab, training "dangerous" grip positions, and more.
If you haven't listened to Episodes 88 and 107, featuring Jared's Rock Rehab Pyramid, they are worth the time.
Certified Nutrition Specialist Caitlin Holmes discusses body composition, which is often conflated with weight loss and can thus be a very polarizing topic.
Eric Hörst chats about how some big life shifts – retirement, the success of his brand PhysiVantage, and becoming an empty nester – have impacted his climbing and training.
Can shoulder injuries be prevented through strength training? Or are they just an inevitable part of being a climber?
Can we minimize tendon injury and return more quickly to climbing?
How does 30 years of climbing affect our shoulders?
It’s a thin line, and one that is tricky to navigate.
Recognizing and dealing with eating disorders in climbing is a prevalent but often ignored issue.
Are you injured? Or is your brain just telling you that you are?
For Dr. Vagy’s third appearance on the podcast, we tackle some myths and hot topics about training for climbing.
Using science to inform climbing training is becoming increasingly popular, and for good reason. Leading that charge is Dr. Tyler Nelson of Camp 4 Human Performance.
It has become accepted that climbers should be lifting weights to maximize our athletic potential. But why exactly? Our coach Paul Corsaro is here to explain.
I had the opportunity to sit down and chat with one of the most exciting comp climbers to watch: recent Pan American Combined Champion Kyra Condie.
Let’s face it. All of us who are trying hard to push ourselves will eventually be injured.
With all the information out there on training, rehabbing, and performance, it’s tough to know where to start when you’re injured.
In this 3 part series we're going to dig into the concepts behind the easy to follow system of prehab and rehab that Dr. Vagy has built.
Dr. Shannon and I discuss the products that Gnarly Nutrition offers.
PT Allison Stowers talks how to self-diagnose, when to see a doctor about an injury, and most importantly, how to prevent them.
Fingers are pretty important to us. Dr. Lisa Erikson takes us on a deep dive into the methods behind dealing with finger injuries.
Whether it be strength training, climbing, or just sitting at a desk chair, regardless of what you're doing, form matters.
Despite the odds, Craig Demartino has become a better rock climber after deciding to amputate his leg.
I sit down with Rannveig Aamodt and talk about her impressive road to recovery after a terrible accident.
Use strength to leverage every other aspect of your climbing, not replace them.
Part three from Nate: training in December and January, how I spent my time in Hueco to keep preparing myself for sport climbing, and what I’m doing from here.
If you've ever been to "24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell", then you've no doubt heard of Dick Dower and Natalie Neal Dower.
I know you've all been training hard, and I just want to be sure you aren't getting sidelined by some silly overuse injury.
One comment I often get is that a client wants to train hard and be dedicated to climbing while remaining healthy and injury free.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
Our very own coach Jess West provides valuable insight as to how setters can smartly and safely train for their goals.