Episode 114: Dealing with Climbing Injury with Esther Smith and Eva Lopez
In this episode I sit down with two high-powered women, Esther Smith and Eva Lopez, and discuss how we can deal with climbing injury. Not the short view details of how to rehab your shoulder impingement, but the bigger picture ideas of prevention of, psychologically coping with, and the aftermath of climbing injuries.
Let’s face it. All of us who are trying hard to push ourselves will eventually be injured. It’s just part of sport. That doesn’t mean that the world needs to be over, and it doesn’t mean that we have to just sit around and wait for it to happen.
You’ll be hearing more from both of these women in the future!
Part three from Nate: training in December and January, how I spent my time in Hueco to keep preparing myself for sport climbing, and what I’m doing from here.
If you've ever been to "24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell", then you've no doubt heard of Dick Dower and Natalie Neal Dower.
I know you've all been training hard, and I just want to be sure you aren't getting sidelined by some silly overuse injury.
One comment I often get is that a client wants to train hard and be dedicated to climbing while remaining healthy and injury free.
Shoulders are a tricky joint. A big muscular shoulder means absolutely nothing when it comes to injuries.
All of us are going to get hurt at some point.
Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?
Does this study FINALLY reveal the best hang protocol for climbers?
Does this study reveal the best hangboard protocol for climbers?
Researcher, coach, and climber Eva Lopez discusses the reactions to her research about finger strength as we try to find out once and for all: What is the best hangboard protocol?
Let’s face it. All of us who are trying hard to push ourselves will eventually be injured.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
Use strength to leverage every other aspect of your climbing, not replace them.