Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?
Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
Does this study FINALLY reveal the best hang protocol for climbers?
Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?
Does this study reveal the best hangboard protocol for climbers?
Episode 118: The Best Hangboard Protocol with Eva Lopez
Researcher, coach, and climber Eva Lopez discusses the reactions to her research about finger strength.
Episode 114: Dealing with Climbing Injury with Esther Smith and Eva Lopez
Let’s face it. All of us who are trying hard to push ourselves will eventually be injured.
Review: Transgression Hangboard by Eva Lopez
The Transgression and Progression Hangboards by Eva Lopez, are the first in some time to depart from the "little bit of every grip type" design.