Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?
Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
Does this study FINALLY reveal the best hang protocol for climbers?
Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?
Does this study reveal the best hangboard protocol for climbers?
Episode 118: The Best Hangboard Protocol with Eva Lopez
Researcher, coach, and climber Eva Lopez discusses the reactions to her research about finger strength as we try to find out once and for all: What is the best hangboard protocol?
Episode 114: Dealing with Climbing Injury with Esther Smith and Eva Lopez
Let’s face it. All of us who are trying hard to push ourselves will eventually be injured.
Review: Transgression Hangboard by Eva Lopez
The Transgression and Progression Hangboards by Eva Lopez, are the first in some time to depart from the "little bit of every grip type" design.