Episode 118: The Best Hangboard Protocol with Eva Lopez

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Written By Kris Hampton
Photo by Javipec

Photo by Javipec

Today's guest needs absolutely no introduction, but I'm honored to introduce her anyway. She is famed Spanish researcher, coach and climber Eva Lopez. We sat down in Salt Lake City to discuss the reactions to her research about finger strength, and to find out once and for all: What is the best hangboard protocol? 

 
Eva building her first prototype for research purposes, circa 2004.

Eva building her first prototype for research purposes, circa 2004.

 
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Episode 118: The Best Hangboard Protocol with Eva Lopez
Episode 118: The Best Hangboard Protocol with Eva Lopez

Researcher, coach, and climber Eva Lopez discusses the reactions to her research about finger strength as we try to find out once and for all: What is the best hangboard protocol? 

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Kris Hampton

A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering.  Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11. 

Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks.  He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com
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