Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients.

If everything you do is a finger workout, then when do your hands get a chance to recover?

Does this study FINALLY reveal the best hang protocol for climbers?

Does hanging on edges also increase pinch strength?

Can we minimize tendon injury and return more quickly to climbing?

Are thicker fingers actually better for grabbing tiny grips?

Does this study reveal the best hangboard protocol for climbers?

Nate provides more depth to the reasoning behind many common finger training methods.

A spectrum of exercises to train contact strength.

We gathered the data. Here’s what it says about how finger and pulling strength combine for climbing performance.

The definitive guide.

From coach Nate Drolet and Tension Climbing, the obvious next progression in campus training is here.

Using science to inform climbing training is becoming increasingly popular, and for good reason. Leading that charge is Dr. Tyler Nelson of Camp 4 Human Performance.

Hangboarding is OVERRATED. But also important. These are the top 5 reasons why.

Many trainers say you shouldn’t. We disagree.

In a world where home training setups for climbing are increasingly important, saving space is key.

Researcher, coach, and climber Eva Lopez discusses the reactions to her research about finger strength as we try to find out once and for all: What is the best hangboard protocol? 

The interwebs are going crazy over Andrew Bisharat’s new miracle hangboard program “Five Minute Fingers” and folks have asked for our opinion.

Steve Maisch discusses different hangboard protocols, when and why to use them, what they can do for you, and where they can go wrong.

Tension Climbing makes wooden climbing holds. Why wood? That's exactly what I wanted to know.