Breaking Beta | Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?
Does using the nutritional supplement beta-alanine improve climbing performance?
Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
Does this study FINALLY reveal the best hang protocol for climbers?
What When How to Train | Sport Climbing at Smith Rock
Smith Rock should be on every sport climber’s list, especially those in search of old-school technical climbing.
What When How to Train | Sport Climbing in the New River Gorge
The best sport climbing in the US? New River climbers would argue that the streaky orange sandstone cliffs of West Virginia are home to just that.
Power Strips | Level Up Your Campus Training
From coach Nate Drolet and Tension Climbing, the obvious next progression in campus training is here.
Climb Better: How to Bulletproof Your Technique
It's no secret that skills deteriorate with fatigue, particularly a complicated, high skill sport like climbing.
Why the Daniel Woods 4x4 is Not a 4x4.
There are loads of pro-climber "training" videos out there that are at best, silly, and at worst, irresponsible.
The High/Low Approach, Part II: AE Without Training the A
When I read that Charlie Francis trained his sprinters by avoiding AE training, I was a little taken aback, and extremely skeptical.
An Epiphany.
Can you simultaneously be in an intense training cycle and realistically expect to perform your best? Doubtful.
Graduation C.A.P.
How do you climb once you've already taken on a massive pump? That's where the CAP comes in. Climbing After Pumped.
Reader Question: Rest Times, Part II
Rob asks: When performing 4x4's or any type of interval training I always question what my rest interval should be?
The Summer/Autumn 2011 Plan.
Despite the fact that the climbing I most often do is steeped in endurance, I can never have too much power.
Reader Questions: A Red River Plan.
A reader asks for opinions on his proposed training plan to prepare for climbing at the Red.
Simplicity: Fitting the Pieces Together.
I've been asked by several friends and readers to give a glimpse into one of my sessions.
Reader Questions: Workout Plan
I’ll answer another great question from a reader about their training plan.