Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in sport climbing.

Does using the nutritional supplement beta-alanine improve climbing performance?

What does science say about warming up before performance?

Are chalking up and shaking out helpful? Or just habits? And is just reading a research paper’s abstract enough to go on?

Examining a study that collected measurements from 55 women, what does the data say about today’s female climbers?

“You’re overthinking it.” But is your overthinking actually costing you the send?

Can how well we climb actually change how difficult a move looks to us?

Can the measurement of contributing energy systems act as climbing performance indicators?

Can we effectively measure movement skills in climbing?

Can shoulder injuries be prevented through strength training? Or are they just an inevitable part of being a climber?

Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?

Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces and assesses a battery of ten tests designed specifically to measure climbing performance.

How does the male/female performance gap in climbing compare to those in sprinting and distance running?

The International Rock Climbing Research Association seeks to bring uniformity to how rock climbing research is collected and presented.

Kris and Paul discuss the process they use to choose and read research papers, both for Breaking Beta and for their own interests as climbers and coaches.

Paul and Kris discuss statistics and their significance with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson.

Paul and Kris discuss what they learned from Season 1 of Breaking Beta.

Does this study FINALLY reveal the best hang protocol for climbers?

Is creatine supplementation right for climbers?

Who is stronger: sport climbers or boulderers?