Board Meetings | Our Favorite Finger Strength Protocols
There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients.
EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Our Finger Strength Resource Page
Eva Lopez | The Best Hangboard Protocol
Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?
Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
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CHAPTERS
(00:00) Intro and Topic Explanation
(20:25) Long Duration Finger Health Hangs
(22:15) Multi-Grip Block Workout
(28:07) Eva Lopez MAW and MED Hangs
(33:27) Too Easy to Fail (2 Hangs per Session)
(38:32) Offset Hangs or Pulls on a Hangboard or Bouldering Wall
(44:07) 6:10 Repeaters
(56:28) 5:55 Three Finger Alternating Hangs
(1:02:12) Three Max Hangs of 6 Seconds Each
(1:08:43) Outro
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Kris Hampton
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.