Board Meetings | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience?

 
 

A common refrain in climbing is that the more you climb, the better you get. But all of us know some old crusty who has been climbing for 45 years and is stuck at mid 5.10. And they have all of the excuses as to why. But they’re wrong.

In this episode, Kris and Nate explore why we believe we’ll just get better if we keep at it, as well as offer strategies to continue improving no matter how long (or short) you’ve been at it.

EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

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Board Meetings | Quality vs. Quantity

Board Meetings | Worst Advice We Got As Beginners

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CHAPTERS

(0:00) Theme

(0:37) Intro and Topic Description

(3:13) Examples of Experience that Doesn’t Guarantee Skill

(6:53) Why We Believe Experience Equals Skill

(10:55) What are the Pros Doing?

(16:20) It Isn’t All About Grades

(18:20) Undervaluing Other Styles and Angles

(19:43) We Don’t Want to Spend the Time

(21:20) We Go Into Autopilot

(23:23) How Can We Keep Improving Skills?

(24:17) Search for Novelty or Change Environments

(28:30) Approach Improvement from All Angles

(31:06) Recognize Discomfort and Lean In, Even Off the Wall

(35:08) The Zone (Not Grades) Where We Develop Skills

(37:16) Why We Suggest Drills

(38:15) Autopilot Mistakes

(42:40) How New Skills Open Opportunities on Hard Projects

(44:10) Examples of Pros Spending Time Below Their Limits

(49:20) Why Consistency Is NOT King

(53:28) Bringing Intention to Skill Drills

(55:47) Tried and True or Just Tradition?

(01:01:01) So Is Skill Guaranteed With Experience?

(01:03:45) How to Go Deeper Into Movement

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We’re a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Kris Hampton

A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering.  Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11. 

Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks.  He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com
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Expert | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching

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What Type of Climbing Movement Do You Value?