REWIND | Board Meetings: The Art of Learning Climbing

 
 

Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better way to consider movement than the technique-based way we’ve always done it.  In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss ideas presented by author Josh Waitzkin about our mental models for learning, specifically after hearing him as a guest on Tim Ferriss's podcast, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.

This episode originally aired on April 5, 2020.

EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

THE CURRENT | Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills

TAPED TIPS | Difficulties Should Be Desirable

TAPED TIPS | When Beta Isn’t Better

BOARD MEETINGS | Common Sense vs. Common Practice

Josh Waitzkin on Beginner’s Mind, Self-Actualization, and Advice from Your Future Self | The Tim Ferriss Show

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CHAPTERS

(0:00) Theme

(0:37) Intro

(2:29) Topic Description

(4:09) New Feedback Paradigms and Opportunities

(8:28) More Feedback Isn’t Always Better

(12:00) Observation and Building Awareness

(17:07) How Routesetting Helps Us Understand Movement

(19:26) When the Poetic Perfection Has Been Marred

(24:03) Unexpected Learning From What You Deem Not Useful

(32:15) The Thematic Elements of Climbing Movement

(39:58) Self-Expression via Movement

(43:29) Reps Hidden in Plain Sight

(51:22) The Ultimate Way to Get In High Quality Reps

(55:24) Hidden Reps We Often Miss

(01:02:14) The Gap in Our Confidence

(01:05:35) Comp Boulders and Discomfort

(01:08:10) How the Best Climbers React to Discomfort

(01:10:35) Setting Hard Things for Yourself

(01:22:41) Put the Wrench Away

(01:13:54) Outro


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Kris Hampton

A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering.  Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11. 

Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks.  He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com
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Taped Tips | Go Ahead, Grab That Foothold and Be Adaptable

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Taped Tips | The Hidden Value of Lowballs