Board Meetings | Our Favorite Finger Strength Protocols
Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients.
Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?
Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
Does this study FINALLY reveal the best hang protocol for climbers?
Breaking Beta | Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?
Does hanging on edges also increase pinch strength?
Breaking Beta | Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?
Can we minimize tendon injury and return more quickly to climbing?
Breaking Beta | Is Finger Pulp the Key to Crimping?
Are thicker fingers actually better for grabbing tiny grips?
A Lot of Words About Fingers
Nate provides more depth to the reasoning behind many common finger training methods.
The Two Things You Need for Climbing Harder
We gathered the data. Here’s what it says about how finger and pulling strength combine for climbing performance.
Ep. 149: Dr. Jared Vagy on Stretching, Prehab, and Other Hot Topics
For Dr. Vagy’s third appearance on the podcast, we tackle some myths and hot topics about training for climbing.
Ep. 147: Making Sense of Science for Climbers with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Using science to inform climbing training is becoming increasingly popular, and for good reason. Leading that charge is Dr. Tyler Nelson of Camp 4 Human Performance.
Sleight of Hand: Interchangeable Hangboarding (Video)
In a world where home training setups for climbing are increasingly important, saving space is key.
Episode 114: Dealing with Climbing Injury with Esther Smith and Eva Lopez
Let’s face it. All of us who are trying hard to push ourselves will eventually be injured.
Episode 107: Climb Injury Free Pt. 2 | Strength and Movement with Dr. Jared Vagy
With all the information out there on training, rehabbing, and performance, it’s tough to know where to start when you’re injured.
Circuit Tape: Better Training Tape for Climbers
Skin is your sending currency. Stop overpaying.
Episode 88: Climb Injury Free Pt. 1 | Mobility with Dr. Jared Vagy
In this 3 part series we're going to dig into the concepts behind the easy to follow system of prehab and rehab that Dr. Vagy has built.
Episode 52: Common Climbing Injuries with Allison Stowers
PT Allison Stowers talks how to self-diagnose, when to see a doctor about an injury, and most importantly, how to prevent them.
Episode 51: Finger Health with Dr. Lisa Erikson
Fingers are pretty important to us. Dr. Lisa Erikson takes us on a deep dive into the methods behind dealing with finger injuries.
Pushing Through the Tweaks, Twinges, and Pains: Fingers and Elbows.
All of us are going to get hurt at some point.