Meet the Machine: Hayley Moran

When/why did you decide to start training?

I realized that the only thing holding me back from progressing was my unwillingness to "figure it out" on my own. Being a full-time setter, sometimes I feel nervous to do training exercises I'm not familiar with because if I injure myself, I can't do my job. Having Jess as my coach gives me the confidence that I'm doing the exact amount and correct type of training to supplement forerunning but without over-doing it where I can't set the next day.

What made you choose to go with Power Company?

I chose Power Company because I felt you have the perfect balance of indoor / outdoor focused training. And that you have a no bull-shit approach. Your program sets the expectation that the only thing holding me back is ME. No one is going to hold my hand. I need that type of accountability where I'm given all the tools but it’s up to ME to actually do it. I knew I wanted a female coach and I knew I wanted someone who would understand how physically taxing route-setting can be and who could adjust my training accordingly. Jess fulfills that perfectly.

What plan did you do and how did you choose that one?

12 Week Custom Plan. I knew I wanted long-term.

Did you work with a coach? If so, which one?

Jess West!

Forerunning as a setter at The Crag | Photo by @gajdaphotography

What aspect of the plan did you like best? Why?

I like the flexibility to move workouts around my schedule if need be. I also just like being a part of Power Company in general because it makes me feel connected to a larger community of climbers in this VERY WEIRD time of Covid. When people ask about my training, I feel super proud to say that I'm working with Power Company because I feel like most people understand that Power Company is a super well-respected program and not just some random plan with a random person. I also feel that Power Company as an organization aligns with my personal values as a human being and knowing that keeps me even more psyched to be a part of something larger than just my personal training program.

What aspect of the plan did you like least? Why?

Sometimes it’s just nice to have an in-person coach to hangout with and to have there to make sure your form is correct. Lucky for me, my setting team is super encouraging and holds me accountable and will check my form on a lot of things I haven't done before.

What were your goals when you began the plan? How did you progress towards those goals?

To improve on slab, improve on coordination moves, and just become stronger in general. I have dramatically improved on slab just by forcing myself to train on it more and also through the balance-y types of exercises Jess has me do. I feel MUCH more aware of my body weight and how to shift it. I've also seen a lot of improvement of my overall power by doing a lot of my training exercises on the Moon board. I feel like I'm able to commit and hold tension much better than I ever have.

Tell us about any memorable successes during/after your training experience.

This was already on the 'gram, but we had set a hard sloper / overhung boulder for the first reset after the Covid closure. I had been working it for a long time with zero progress on this one shut down move. I took a long 3 week break and got back on the day before it was stripped and the move felt easy and I sent immediately. It was the first time I was truly shocked at how much better I had gotten at locking off and control.

What's the next step in your climbing and training?

Working harder outdoor boulders in the fall. I plan to continue my Power Company training through the fall season.

What would you say were the most important things (positive or negative) you learned during your training experience?

Your mental game and ability to try hard are much more important than your physical abilities. YOU HAVE THE TIME TO TRAIN. You're lying to yourself when you say you're too tired. Working out with a friend is much more fun than training alone. When think you want to skip out on a workout, remember how good it feels when things feel easier than expected and remind yourself it won't feel easy anymore if you skip out. Coffee is always your friend.

What would you consider your greatest strength or superpower when it comes to climbing?

Shoulder strength. Double gastons ALL DAY.

Super Mario, V4 - Stone Fort, Tennessee. | Photo by @galidu

Tell us about your proudest (not necessarily hardest) send.

Panty Shields (V3) at Horse Pens 40. This was the beginning of me learning what it feels like to try hard. I did this boulder in the dark, very late at night, with my OG setting team from Memphis Rox. When I finally topped after falling at the top like 6 times, I laughed and cried at the same time. It was the first time I was super proud of myself in climbing.

What would you say is a weakness or skill you need to improve in climbing?

Slab, balance.

What advice would you give someone considering starting a training plan?

Identify exactly what you want to improve on before committing to training. Find some friends who will do their own training plan(s) but who will agree to exist in the same place as you while you do it.