Meet the Machine: Zachary Karcher

When/why did you decide to start training?

I began to take my climbing progression more seriously over the last few years and saw a lot of improvement from just trying increasingly harder routes. I was able to climb 13a or b, but it was always a crapshoot as to how long it would take me to send routes of these grades, and though I’ve tried a handful of 13c’s, I had never been able to send one. My motivation in training was to boost my fitness such that I could do 5.13- faster, and hopefully be able to send my first 13c.

What made you choose to go with Power Company?

I have always loved the content you all put out on your podcast, and felt like I had a good idea of your training philosophies already and knew that they resonated with me.

What plan did you do and how did you choose that one?

I ended up choosing the Climb 5.13 Proven Plan after asking Kris which one would be most appropriate for me. This was my first foray into structured training, and the Climb 5.13 Proven Plan ended up being well scaled to where my fitness was already.

Did you work with a coach? If so, which one?

I worked with Paul Corsaro. He was easy-going and super helpful. He checked in with me weekly, and kept me accountable. Every now and then I would need clarification on a specific drill or exercise, and he was always quick to respond. Thanks, Paul!

Modern Warfare, 13b

What aspect of the plan did you like best? Why?

I really enjoyed the ability to schedule training days freely. I recently moved to Las Vegas and I was going through a period of transition while also working through the training plan so being able to adjust/reschedule my workouts to fit well with the rest of my life was a huge benefit.

What aspect of the plan did you like least? Why?

It would be sweet if there was more of a training journal built into the app such that you could easily see your progress and gains. The training app does mark some of your progress, but not anything about the climbs you’re doing.

What were your goals when you began the plan? How did you progress towards those goals?

My goals were simple, I wanted to be able to climb 5.13- pitches more quickly, and I wanted to send a 5.13c.

Tell us about any memorable successes during/after your training experience.

The coronavirus has prevented me from getting outside for the last little while, but before lock downs went into effect, I sent five new 13a’s and b’s in a week and a half, which was super exciting for me. I also flashed two 12d’s in a day - before this program, I had flashed only one other 12d in my career. A few weeks back, I managed to send my first V10 out in Moe’s, which makes me feel confident that this program left me with the strength and fitness to redpoint 5.13+, I just now need the time and freedom to go out and project.

What's the next step in your climbing and training?

Well, we will have to see how the virus runs its course over the next few weeks/month. I am currently sequestered in my house in Las Vegas, we have a well set up garage for training purposes (luckily), and I am trying to maintain the strength gains I have made over the last three months of the program. Once it is acceptable to get out and climb, I will be shopping around for some 5.13+ projects to test myself on.

What would you say were the most important things (positive or negative) you learned during your training experience?

I am a product of gym climbing, like many newer climbers. Yet, through my experience with this training program I have learned to use the climbing gym in an entirely new way - going in with a plan already laid out in front of you allows you to be much more time and energy efficient in your efforts. I found it easy to put my faith in the plan and give as much effort to the exercises listed in the app as I could.

What would you consider your greatest strength or superpower when it comes to climbing?

I am a naturally strong climber. I have always been able to do relatively difficult cruxes, but would often end up failing to manage pump and would find myself falling after the crux of a route.

Dead Rabbit, V10 | Moe’s Valley, Utah.

Tell us about your proudest (not necessarily hardest) send.

Sending my first V10 was a big moment for me, not necessarily because of the grade, but because of my history with this particular problem. I had tried it about a year and a half before with a few friends of mine. During that trip sending this problem had been my main goal and I fell short of that and had to deal with the disappointment I felt when both of my friends ended up sending it, while I couldn’t.

I went back for a single day to try the boulder again towards the end of my training program. The individual moves all felt easier, but linking them together felt hard and possibly still out of my reach. After a few close but unsuccessful attempts, I began to doubt my progress and ended up in a negative head space. I was sure I would leave empty handed once again. After taking time to calm my mind for one last attempt, I sat down at the base of the boulder, pulled on, and sent it easily. When I topped out the problem I ended up crying, not because I had done my hardest problem, but because I got my confidence back.

What would you say is a weakness or skill you need to improve in climbing?

Climbing well while pumped is my weakness. It is so easy to let go! I recognize that I am getting better, but it is still my greatest challenge.

What advice would you give someone considering starting a training plan? 

Have faith in the plan, see it through to the end. It is okay to leave the gym not feeling thrashed, I almost never did. You get more from giving maximal efforts and performing the exercises with proper technique than you do from redlining and getting sloppy.