Meet the Machine: Charlie Hall

When/why did you decide to start training?

I've been climbing for almost 14 years. I can't really say I have 14 years of climbing experience though. Each year I try to take the summer off to focus on mountain biking and spending time with family and friends. I still manage to get out and climb socially a few times during the hot months, but, as I get older, the curve of returning to climbing fitness each fall gets steeper. The past 3 seasons in particular, I've had great starts but failed to really make it count down the stretch due to injury. I wanted to ensure that this time around, my fitness was in the best position possible to mitigate risk of injury. I wanted my training to consider everything. Before starting the season I wanted to know the answer to some tough questions: Would I be strong enough to bounce back from a big fall? Will that inevitable finger tweak give me an excuse to slow down? Why did I get that finger tweak in the first place?

What made you choose to go with Power Company?

In Michigan, we don't really have many people focused on training for climbers. We might not have any? I doubt we have anyone who has the data, process, technology, and experience that the Power Company does. For that matter, I don't know of any other brand/organization in the US that has that available to the public. That made the decision easy.

What plan did you do and how did you choose that one?

I chose the 12 Week Custom Plan. At first I was going to pick one of the Proven Plan Ebooks, the PDF’s with a detailed outline of how to proceed, but I knew that the accountability and one-on-one discussion would be super meaningful for me.

Did you work with a coach? If so, which one?

Jess West!

Mortal Combat, V4 - Horse Pens 40, Alabama | Photo by Justin Jakimiak

What aspect of the plan did you like best? Why?

The results! More seriously though, the progression of exercises getting more and more difficult is fun to see pushed to the program's mobile app. It becomes a game of how well you can perform. I love competing, so this really catered to my motivation. So maybe that's my favorite piece? The ability for the program to motivate me beyond just my psyche for climbing. It's easy to enjoy climbing. Maybe it's not as easy for some people to enjoy repetitive training. I jump back and forth on whether I consider myself a member of that crowd.

What aspect of the plan did you like least? Why?

Mobility and box drills. I understand the importance of both of them (and wow! did I ever need to work hard on those mobility drills), but mobility isn't climbing (but it does feel great when you're finished with it) and people all over the gym looked at me weird and asked a whole bunch of questions when I would do box drills. I was never quite comfortable when they were prescribed. I guess I need to get better at finding comfort in being uncomfortable.

What were your goals when you began the plan? How did you progress towards those goals?

I was really motivated to prevent injury. With that in the back of my mind, I made sure that I was hyper-diligent when it came to the training part of the program. Progression in that area was a difficult thing for me since I had rarely done any weight training or lifting and I didn't know anything about form. It was hard at first but I was able to ask for guidance and that helped me dial it in.

Tell us about any memorable successes during/after your training experience.

I live far away from any outdoor climbing. One wouldn't "day trip" where I'm from. People barely do weekend trips. I'm lucky enough to be able to travel out of state quite a bit and so I am able to get out to climb about 6-10 times a year. Most of those trips are weekends or work trips where I'm just climbing one day and traveling or working the rest of the time. I usually get one big climbing trip per year (big = more than 2 climbing days). This past year, toward the end of my training block, I was fortunate enough to have 2, week-long trips. The first to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and the second to Chattanooga. I have long-standing projects in both spots. Almost all of them went down. Time to try harder stuff and find new projects!

Kneeling Before Power, V10 - Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Arkansas | Photo by Justin Salas

What's the next step in your climbing and training?

This year I'm hoping to climb year-round. I really want to make the most of this next fall season. We are facing some seriously difficult circumstances due to our current global health crisis, but I'm still hoping that this year is a good one. Too bad hope isn't a strategy. I plan to start training again with another Custom Plan in the early summer months. Until then, hang-boarding and calisthenics (maybe I'll sneak in a kettlebell squat or two).

What would you say were the most important things (positive or negative) you learned during your training experience?

I have a lot of swords to sharpen. The training experience helps you isolate the current need and tackle your goal one day at a time. This measure of day-by-day progression is so important. It's repetitive and over-used, but it really is all about the smallest executable step towards your goals. What one thing do you want to do to be better right now? Go do it. Go!

What would you consider your greatest strength or superpower when it comes to climbing?

Physically? Compression. Mentally? Reflection. The physical response is probably self-explanatory. I like squeezing my arms together around stuff. The mental aspect of reflection is really important to me. It's not just about "Why did I do that?" but more so, "Why should I do that?". Reflection is defined (secondary definition) as serious thought or consideration. I really value consideration and consideration doesn't have to be reactive. Plan your movement. Plan your rest. Plan your try-hard and you'll see success. Sorry. That was corny.

Tell us about your proudest (not necessarily hardest) send.

Without a doubt my proudest send is of “White Lines.” It's a tough granite block out north of Tahoe at the top of Donner Pass. It's V8 I think, at least it was like 10 years ago when I did it. The boulder sits about 200 yards off the road, but you have to navigate some sketchy talus to get there unless you know the guy that owns the house right next to the boulder (the boulder was and is on public property). In August 2009, I was in California and tried “White Lines” for the first time. I was in love with it. It has such a cool sequence and this was one of my first times on granite. It was also one of the first times I had climbed out west. Anyway, that August I tried it with a group of people I had just met in the bay area. We were up in Tahoe for the weekend when we tried it and it was just too warm or maybe I was just too weak. Either way, it didn't happen. Fast forward to the next year. It's 2010 and I'm driving out to California again in late August (I couldn't climb in the fall because I was a broke college kid balancing school and two jobs). The first day in California we stopped in Truckee and I convinced my buddy it was a good idea to go to “White Lines” and put in some work. Still nothing. Unfortunately, we were just passing through and I wasn't going to be able to come back. It felt like an epic saga leaving that boulder without a send. Two weeks later, we were broke, tired, and our plans to stay another week fell through. Instead, we detoured like 5 hours north so that I could go back to “White Lines.” That late August day as the sun was setting on both the trip and my dreams of sending the boulder, my buddy and I took our one pad and hiked back down to the boulder. Second go as the sun was setting, I topped it out. One pad, one spotter (search for a video and you'll understand). I was beyond psyched. Everything climbing meant to me up until that point changed. I realized the value of repetition and willpower. I topped it out in silence and sat on the top for what seemed like forever. We hiked back to the car and drove back to Michigan.

What would you say is a weakness or skill you need to improve in climbing?

Mobility and close-proximity crossing. I can't really explain the latter very well, but if I'm on an overhang and I have to bend my wrists at any angle other than just a few degrees, I lose almost all my power. Pretty sure this is just a function of poor mobility. So.... MOBILITY!

What advice would you give someone considering starting a training plan?

- If you have questions, ask. Your coach and friends are excited to help you.
- Trust the process.
- Rest is rest. You should actually rest.
- Good nutrition is good training.

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