Meet the Machine: Tanner Wilson

When/why did you decide to start training?

I think like 5 years ago? Maybe 4 years ago. I started training because I had been at that notorious V7 plateau for like...... ever.

What made you choose to go with Power Company?

At the time, Mr. Odub was just a local Cincy guy who was training people in “The Engine Room” at Rockquest Climbing Center. I had heard a lot of great things about him so I hit him up through Facebook and BAM!, there I was. Climbing my little fingers to the bone in a private session!

What plan did you do and how did you choose that one?

At first, I just did private lessons and evaluations. Then I bought a few Ebooks, and then I started buying Custom Plans.

Did you work with a coach? If so, which one?

I have worked with Kris quite a few times. I have also worked with Nate in-person once. Blake is my current life-saver though. I’ve not met him yet but he helps me out so much. Bless you, Blake.

Wild Gift, 12c - Red River Gorge, Kentucky | Photo by Jack Brown

What aspect of the plan did you like best? Why?

Um..... really? The GAINZ obviously. What kind of question is that?

What aspect of the plan did you like least? Why?

I still haven’t gotten to meet Blake who has been my Power Company lifeline for a couple years now. That’s not a big issue though. I’m sure most people don’t get to meet their coach. Blake’s and my paths will cross one day!

What were your goals when you began the plan? How did you progress towards those goals?

My initial goal was to consistently climb V7 outside. I ended up going out the following winter on an extended trip to Rocktown and did, like, 20? Plus a whole crap ton of V6's and I think I even did a V8 that trip. I don’t quite remember though.

Tell us about any memorable successes during/after your training experience.

Two summers ago, Blake made me this crazy plan to get me in shape for an upcoming trip to Lander. Right toward the end, I was doing 4x4's on sticker problems (V7-V9). I was pretty frickin’ juiced about that. Other than that, I’ve flashed harder and harder routes and boulders. I’ve also redpointed my highest numbers fresh off of a Power Company plan.

What's the next step in your climbing and training?

I recently learned that training-wise, I’m much stronger than my hardest sends are showing. I am going to take some time off of a training plan and work on my redpointing tactics, and really just focus on matching my flow to my strength. Time on rock, baby! I’m definitely strong enough to meet my goals. I just need to get smart enough to meet my goals.

What would you say were the most important things (positive or negative) you learned during your training experience?

That there is no substitute for 100% effort in the gym. If you go into the gym and give 100% every single time, your goals will be smashed in no time.

What would you consider your greatest strength or superpower when it comes to climbing?

Hmmm. That depends. If you ask anyone this question for me, they say my compression climbing abilities. Slopey compression is my biggest strength. My superpower though? I’d say my climbing superpower is showing people a great time outside and keeping people stoked even when shit (can I say that?) gets hard.

Tell us about your proudest (not necessarily hardest) send.

That is a tough one. I’d say “The Orb” at Rocktown took me the most tries and the most work. However, I was most stoked to do “Wind Drinker” at Suicide Point in Lander. Like 6 years ago I put that route on my lifetime tick list. It’s the first and only route I’ve crossed off of that list thus far.

Endless Numbered Days, (13b) - Red River Gorge, Kentucky | Photo by Patrick Stutts

What would you say is a weakness or skill you need to improve in climbing?

My endurance has been a funny meme generator for years. I definitely need some fitness.

What advice would you give someone considering starting a training plan?

What is there to consider? DO IT. Don’t have the cash? Hit me up. I’ll start a crowd-funding campaign for you.