Meet the Machine: Dale Wilson

When/why did you decide to start training?

Wanted to climb cooler looking rocks.

What made you choose to go with Power Company?

Enjoyed the blog, had success with the Boulder Better Ebook, decided I needed the accountability/buy-in of having a coach.

What plan did you do and how did you choose that one?

Had climbed a few V5's but wanted to get more solid skills at the grade so I tried the Boulder Better Ebook. Sent a few V6's that season so I was pretty excited about the progress. Knew that Paul had a lot of expertise in strength training which I had always gravitated towards and he'd done some hard ascents that I respected a lot.

Did you work with a coach? If so, which one?

The following year I made the move to a custom plan with Paul.

What aspect of the plan did you like best? Why?

Paul was available to support me whenever I had problems. Living in a hotel for 9 days: he updated my plan based on my equipment in less than 24hrs. My focus starts wandering: he gave simple no nonsense advice to keep me on the path. The buy-in I experienced from having a coach that I knew was an expert was unreal.

What were your goals when you began the plan? How did you progress towards those goals?

Wanted to climb my first V7 and make V6 go down faster. Wrapped up my season with a few V7's and brought V6 to my "in a session" grade.

Tell us about any memorable successes during/after your training experience.

I gained about 30lbs on my max hang after 12 weeks of training despite drastically cutting my hangboarding volume and not adding load during my training. I also started to feel all the nuances of certain moves that I'd never picked up on before. Spending time on drills was an absolute game changer for me.

What's the next step in your climbing and training?

Taking apart my movement problems further, getting outside more.

What would you say were the most important things (positive or negative) you learned during your training experience?

You get what you put in. There's no secret to any of it - just hard work, patience, and time.

What would you consider your greatest strength or superpower when it comes to climbing?

Tolerance for boredom, patience.

Tell us about your proudest (not necessarily hardest) send.

Madhatter, V6, at the New. It was my second weekend outside after my summer focused on training. I tried the crux a couple times then sent on my first attempt from the start. I'd sent another V6 in a couple goes the day before and it just dawned on me that the grade was starting to go really fast, feel easy, and that the training was "working."

Ronski Feint, V7 - New River Gorge, West Virginia.

What would you say is a weakness or skill you need to improve in climbing?

Coordination.

What advice would you give someone considering starting a training plan?

Make it the priority in your life for a period of time and see what you get.