Meet the Machine: Jenn Bouma

When/why did you decide to start training?

I started actually training for climbing about a year ago. I’ve been a competitive athlete for the last 25 years racing bikes. I know how training improves performance. For me, I need that structure to hone my skills and develop strength. For the first couple of years, I just climbed A LOT, and in that time I learned a lot, too. But I also realized that if I was ever going to progress off the plateau I was on for about a year, I would have to learn how to climb. That’s where the training came in. It focused my time and effort towards movement, positioning, conditioning, and mental practice - busting me way down to the basics, teaching me how to improve them, and how to build from that much stronger foundation.

What made you choose to go with Power Company?

I love the podcast. I think the approach Kris and his team have has worked for me. It’s kind and no-nonsense at the same time. They really care about what they’re doing and it shines in the programs.

What plan did you do and how did you choose that one?

I chose the Boulder Better Proven Plan, because it suited my climbing level and personal goals.

Did you work with a coach? If so, which one?

I didn’t this time, but I will for the higher level programs.

What aspect of the plan did you like best? Why?

I loved the interaction with the community of folks doing the programs and the coaches. I thought the programming was well-structured and showed a ton of attention to detail. Every exercise has an accompanying video tutorial that was extremely helpful. I loved the format on the app, which made it super easy to follow at the gym.

What aspect of the plan did you like least? Why?

I have a hard time coming up with any negatives. Any question or concern that came up was promptly addressed. Y’all are hitting it out of the park, in my opinion.

What were your goals when you began the plan? How did you progress towards those goals?

My goal was to develop better climbing technique. My bonus goals were to get over my fear of falling and be able to improve my flash grade. I met all those goals.

Tell us about any memorable successes during/after your training experience.

The biggest improvement was definitely in my mental game. Because the focus became about trying hard and developing efficient movement, I was no longer laser-focused on “OMG, what if I fall?!?” On top of that, I started working on projects from which I fell A LOT. One day, it just occurred to me that I was no longer hesitant to make big moves at the top of the wall. That felt really good.

What's the next step in your climbing and training? 

I am going to just have some fun climbing again for a while and work to send a really hard V4 traverse on the local granite boulder. (All depends on quarantine being lifted, of course.)
This fall, I will return to more intentional training, and I’ll likely do a few programs with Power Company.

What would you say were the most important things (positive or negative) you learned during your training experience?

I learned how to really try hard. This came easily to me in my cycling career because of the competition aspect. I mean, I was literally pitted against a competitor who was working to defeat me. In climbing, I don’t have that innate competitive drive, and I didn’t know how to drum up that will to grit my teeth and give it my all until it was sort of taught to me through the program.

What would you consider your greatest strength or superpower when it comes to climbing?

I am committed to improving. I figure anything I’m willing to put this amount of time into should be done well and with intention. I am kind to myself in my progress.

Tell us about your proudest (not necessarily hardest) send.

Okay, I know gym sends are what they are, but I sent a VERY gnarly V5 with a sketchy dyno at the last hold, and that’s when I felt a huge breakthrough in my mental game.

What would you say is a weakness or skill you need to improve in climbing?

I have the damnedest time on balance-y slab. I’m most comfortable pulling hard on steep overhangs and sinking my heels into roof climbs, but slab pushes my weaknesses out into the spotlight. The body mobility and awareness are super intensified in those small movements, more so than any big jumpy coordination move, in my opinion. The mental stamina to slowly move through some of those problems is heroic.

What advice would you give someone considering starting a training plan?

Do it.