Meet the Machine: Dana Miller

Photo by Martin Kim

When/why did you decide to start training?

I was always on the cusp as a youth climber. I was always just barely good enough to make nationals, because maybe someone had a ‘bye,’ or I got a second round invitation. I was good but never great. I never pushed myself to get better either. I grew up with a handicap and my parents sheltered me because of it. I never learned how to be uncomfortable. Finally, as an adult, I had a change of mindset. I decided I wanted to see what happened if I pushed myself - if I got outside my comfort zone. I wanted to see how strong I could get if I actually trained. I just wish I started training earlier.

What made you choose to go with Power Company?

I've had a few coaches over the years. I'm someone who really needs someone in my corner in order to be motivated. I can let myself down, but I can't let others down. Having a coach that really cares and puts effort into each client is what stuck out to me about the coaches at Power Company Climbing.

What plan did you do and how did you choose that one?

I started with a Proven Plan and went to Custom Plans after that.

Did you work with a coach? If so, which one?

Over the years I've worked with Blake, Kris, and Paul. I think it is important to work with multiple coaches and get different takes on training.

Mad Lion, (V7) - Peterskill, New York | Photo by Hilary Guzik

What aspect of the plan did you like best? Why?

I loved the customization of the Custom Plan. I could really work on my specific weaknesses and goals.

What aspect of the plan did you like least? Why?

I hated having to do capacity training. On-the-Minute Boulders suck. It's basically the worst workout ever.

What were your goals when you began the plan? How did you progress towards those goals?

For my most recent plan, my goal was to prepare for a trip to Joe's Valley, which did not happen due to the current pandemic. The specific goal for the trip was to finish multiple hard problems, rather than just one project. To prepare for this I did a lot of limit bouldering and On-the-Minute Boulders.

Tell us about any memorable successes during/after your training experience.

I think the coolest thing about training is how the successes keep coming. I usually take a climbing trip each spring. In 2018, I went to Hueco and climbed my first V9 in a day, then in 2019, I went to Bishop and climbed my first V10 in a day.

What's the next step in your climbing and training?

Right now I am just trying to stay as strong as I can with gyms and climbing areas closed.

What would you say were the most important things (positive or negative) you learned during your training experience? 

I think the most important thing I've learned is the value of short, but focused, limit bouldering sessions. It's amazing how much you can gain with 30 minutes of limit bouldering a few times a week!

What would you consider your greatest strength or superpower when it comes to climbing?

Being able to power through on steep crimp lines.

Kinesthetic Awareness (Stand), (V9) - Mt. Gretna, Pennsylvania | Photo by Mark Profeta

Tell us about your proudest (not necessarily hardest) send.

Last season, I sent a V9 in Pennsylvania called “Kinesthetic Awareness (Stand).” The last move of the boulder is BIG. Before I had even tried the last move, I just assumed I didn’t have the wingspan for it. I spent two sessions trying to find alternate beta. Finally I decided to say F it and try the traditional beta for the last move. I stuck it! I sent it the next go. I learned an important lesson to go big and not doubt my ability to throw.

What would you say is a weakness or skill you need to improve in climbing?

My biggest weakness is large compression moves. I'm terrible at hugging rocks.

What advice would you give someone considering starting a training plan?

Go for it! It is absolutely worth investing in yourself and your training.