Meet the Machine: Kevin McCarthy

When/why did you decide to start training?

In 2002, I started climbing right after my college soccer career had ended. In those days, I had a summer job in Nevada where I first learned to climb. [My wife] Tamara and I lived in Pennsylvania and we goofed around at the local boulders and local gym. In 2005, we moved back home to St. Louis. There we were exposed to the beauty of southern Illinois sandstone. We spent years learning to climb and I really got sucked into trad. We built a small woody at home and I spent countless hours doing what I thought was “training.”
About 2005, I started work for the Missouri Department of Conservation and also started coaching college and high school goalkeepers on the side. Somewhere in this busy schedule I also climbed on my home wall. Tamara and I would make a few trips outside each year, but we would typically just repeat routes that were familiar to us. During that time, I was more focused on perfecting technical skills and trad climbing. I thought I was getting strong, but not really.
My transformation into training begins with an epiphany. In 2013, we were on an annual trip to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. The trip was stereotypical HCR. I would run rope-gun for a small group of friends, followed by drinking and partying at night. On this fateful trip, I tried “Lavender Eye” (12a), a one-move-wonder route I’d tried the past couple of years but always failed. Prior to 2013, I had completed several 5.11’s, started bouldering a little more, but didn’t allow myself to even touch another 5.12 until I completed “Lavender Eye.” I had gone into this trip thinking I would finally send, only to fail again. I was a technically solid climber, but I couldn’t understand why I wasn’t strong enough. On this same trip, we also downed way too many beers and stayed up way too late. By day three I was hungover and couldn’t climb at all.
During the six-hour drive home, I was pissed. I had squandered another trip. I had to get strong, but I didn’t know how. In 2015, I ended up leaving my state job to purse a new opportunity and also stopped coaching. I finally then had more time to devote to climbing. I also joined Climb So iLL as a member, and eventually was picked up as a board member of BETA Fund with my state and natural resource background. Historically, I was a recluse and I stayed in the shadows because of my state job. Now, I was finally exposed to better climbers and the climbing community.

What made you choose to go with Power Company?

Around 2015/2016, I started climbing with a stronger crew and continued my self-coaching with some success. I also tried another company's training plan, but found it more like “CrossFit” and it didn't fit my needs. I wanted to be smarter, not just stronger. Early 2017, I went to a talk hosted by Kris and Nate at Climb So iLL. They broke down their approach to training and it felt like a bomb went off! Their approach to body tension, movement, learning, and perfection was mind blowing. Prior to them, I hadn't heard anyone speak about climbing in this way. I felt like I now had a language and an approach to work with.
In the summer of 2017, I started my first session of training with Power Company. Needless to say, I had a breakout year, sending more hard boulders, V7 - V9, in a single season vs. all 15 prior years of climbing combined. Prior to 2017, my hardest outdoor boulder was a single V6. I've since repeated the program two more times and likely will continue repeating when I need to ramp up in preparation of a climbing season.

What plan did you do and how did you choose that one?

Boulder Strong Proven Plan, with coach communication.

Did you work with a coach? If so, which one?

Kris Hampton

Tablecloth, (V9/10) - Elephant Rocks State Park, Missouri | Photo by Dave Chancellor

What aspect of the plan did you like best? Why?

Movement, skills development, structure, and flexibility to modify the plan. Kris responded with new workouts and opposition to push me in the right ways.

What aspect of the plan did you like least? Why?

 I forget the name, but whatever that drill is where you have to climb all scrunched up. I suck at it and it's no fun.

What were your goals when you began the plan? How did you progress towards those goals?

I wanted to climb “Tablecloth,” a classic V9/10 at Elephant Rocks State Park. I sent it in 2019 after a solid three years of focus!

Tell us about any memorable successes during/after your training experience.

I would say sending my goal, but actually the most memorable success is feeling confident to steadily raise the bar. I feel like I understand training and this crazy sport so much better. I understand my body and when to push to get the results needed. Basically, I feel more skilled and smarter than ever.

What's the next step in your climbing and training?

Currently, I'm taking a break. COVID-19 shutdowns and the approaching hot summer is moving training down a notch in priority to family. I'll ramp up again starting in July with an eye towards first ascents this fall.

What would you say were the most important things (positive or negative) you learned during your training experience? 

The most important thing I learned was confidence. This is confidence gained through putting in the work rather than just being lucky or born with it.

What would you consider your greatest strength or superpower when it comes to climbing?

Resilience and belief. Hard boulders (and being a dad and working a difficult career), doesn't come naturally or easy. You have to be resilient and believe that the impossible is actually possible. Only then can you put in the work to make impossible things possible.

King Slayer, (V?) - Elephant Rocks State Park, Missouri. | Photo by Dave Chancellor

Tell us about your proudest (not necessarily hardest) send.

I should say that my most proud send is “Tablecloth,” the V9/10 boulder that I sent in spring 2019 that drove me to aim higher. I was obsessed with this climb. I had dreams, mentally rehearsed moves, and really gave it my all. I'll never forget the elation of sending that line.
However, in the fall of 2019, Dave Chancellor and I turned our eyes to an undone climb that's been drooled over for years. We've been climbing together for several years and this line felt like the next natural challenge. We spent many weeks putting in the work, cleaning holds and figuring out moves on a scary highball. After many weeks of effort, Dave grabbed the first ascent of “King Slayer,” V Hard. One week later, I got the second. To date, this line is my most proudest send.

What would you say is a weakness or skill you need to improve in climbing? 

Fast twitch explosive power.

What advice would you give someone considering starting a training plan?

Give it the attention that it deserves. You only get out what you put in.