The "First Draft" Approach to Sport Climbing
How many times have you gone up a route and felt overwhelmed, only to look back and realize that it’s not as intimidating as it initially seemed?
Board Meetings | The Gym to Crag Performance Gap
We talk about the ways the gym doesn’t prepare you for climbing outside, and provide some tips on how you can address this gap.
Training for the Future
Most of us go into a training plan or an outdoor season with an expectation, but expecting results can make us brittle when problems arise.
Breaking Beta | Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?
Does using the nutritional supplement beta-alanine improve climbing performance?
Advice Has an Angle
Whenever there is a training article online or some tidbit of knowledge on social media, it’s important that you consider the context.
What When How to Train | Chattanooga Bouldering with Juliet Hammer
Looking for a winter bouldering destination with endless rock, hosting classic problems of every grade? Look no further than Chattanooga.
Breaking Beta | Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?
What does science say about warming up before performance?
Board Meetings | How to Tell if Your Training Worked
Objective metrics might not be the best way.
Skills of Perception: Part 3
At a certain stage in climbing, the hand and foot beta you use stops being the deciding factor in whether or not you are successful.
Sam Prentice | The Giant Sequoia Mortician
Sam Prentice, a climber and District Hydrologist for the USDA Forest Service, talks about the alarming rate at which wildfires are destroying the Giant Sequoias.
Breaking Beta | Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helping or Persistent Myths?
Are chalking up and shaking out helpful? Or just habits? And is just reading a research paper’s abstract enough to go on?
Prerna Dangi | Finding Her Power
Prerna’s biggest goal of all — and the one she’s certainly dedicating the most to — is to continue building an empowered community of female climbers in India.
Breaking Beta | What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?
Examining a study that collected measurements from 55 women, what does the data say about today’s female climbers?
Skills of Perception: Part 2
The intermediate climber’s problem with perception starts to arise when they can’t recall all of the solutions they have attempted during the problem solving process.
Skills of Perception: Part 1
If you want to get the most out of your skill work and practice, being able to remember what you tried is a great first step.
Breaking Beta | Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?
“You’re overthinking it.” But is your overthinking actually costing you the send?
Breaking Beta | Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold and Move Size?
Can how well we climb actually change how difficult a move looks to us?
Future Problems
Well-intentioned brainstorming about improving ourselves can quickly devolve into avoiding the challenge in front of us.
Breaking Beta | Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?
Can the measurement of contributing energy systems act as climbing performance indicators?