You’ll get more value out of replicating the times that things go well than you will from dwelling on the bad days.

Can we effectively measure movement skills in climbing?

What if you’re spending time chasing something you don’t really want?

Can shoulder injuries be prevented through strength training? Or are they just an inevitable part of being a climber?

Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?

Most climbers train the way my friend’s grandma uses a thermostat.

Climbers will dedicate years to getting “strong enough” when what they really need is to learn how to apply the strength they already have.

Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces and assesses a battery of ten tests designed specifically to measure climbing performance.

How does the male/female performance gap in climbing compare to those in sprinting and distance running?

The International Rock Climbing Research Association seeks to bring uniformity to how rock climbing research is collected and presented.

Kris and Paul discuss the process they use to choose and read research papers, both for Breaking Beta and for their own interests as climbers and coaches.

Does your chalk contain a substance that might be ruining your favorite climbs?

Paul and Kris discuss statistics and their significance with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson.

Paul and Kris discuss what they learned from Season 1 of Breaking Beta.

If you want better answers, start by asking better questions.

Not all games are created equal.

Does this study FINALLY reveal the best hang protocol for climbers?

Is creatine supplementation right for climbers?

Who is stronger: sport climbers or boulderers?

Does hanging on edges also increase pinch strength?