Taped Tips | Difficulties Should Be Desirable
The difficulties of a task should be such that they help the learner translate the skill to performance.
What One-Star Book Reviews Teach Us About Training
It’s far more comfortable for us to blame ignorance for our lack of progress than it is to blame our own efforts.
Board Meetings | Top Ways Climbers are Holding Themselves Back with The Average Climber Podcast
Kris and Nate are joined by Lauren and Caitlin of The Average Climber Podcast, to discuss some of the biggest ways climbers get in their own way.
Taped Tips | When Beta Isn't Better
You’re watching your client, student, partner, or bestie struggle. And you want to help. But how? It entirely depends on the goal.
Taped Tips | I Said What I S.A.I.D.
We think we know exactly what climbing looks like. We’ve zeroed in on the details. And in this case, it really isn’t those details that matter.
Ten Minutes to Trying Harder
Once you learn the power of good tactics it can be hard to step away from them.
The Biggest Red Flag of 2019/2022
Of all the people that I spoke with this year who were stuck in plateaus, many of them had the same thing in common: they climbed and trained alone.
Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics
How to use data to inform training decisions had been a topic of debate amongst the Power Company coaches for years, until Data Analyst, Dale Wilson, stepped in to settle the score once and for all.
Board Meetings | Systematic Tactics vs. Battle Mode
Both are important. Which is your default? Do you value the other?
Build In Wins
The belief that you are getting better at climbing is one of the most important ingredients in actually getting better at climbing.
The "First Draft" Approach to Sport Climbing
How many times have you gone up a route and felt overwhelmed, only to look back and realize that it’s not as intimidating as it initially seemed?
Board Meetings | The Gym to Crag Performance Gap
We talk about the ways the gym doesn’t prepare you for climbing outside, and provide some tips on how you can address this gap.
Training for the Future
Most of us go into a training plan or an outdoor season with an expectation, but expecting results can make us brittle when problems arise.
Breaking Beta | Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?
Does using the nutritional supplement beta-alanine improve climbing performance?
Advice Has an Angle
Whenever there is a training article online or some tidbit of knowledge on social media, it’s important that you consider the context.
What When How to Train | Chattanooga Bouldering with Juliet Hammer
Looking for a winter bouldering destination with endless rock, hosting classic problems of every grade? Look no further than Chattanooga.
Breaking Beta | Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?
What does science say about warming up before performance?
Board Meetings | How to Tell if Your Training Worked
Objective metrics might not be the best way.
Skills of Perception: Part 3
At a certain stage in climbing, the hand and foot beta you use stops being the deciding factor in whether or not you are successful.