Sam Prentice | The Giant Sequoia Mortician
Sam Prentice, a climber and District Hydrologist for the USDA Forest Service, talks about the alarming rate at which wildfires are destroying the Giant Sequoias.
Breaking Beta | Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helping or Persistent Myths?
Are chalking up and shaking out helpful? Or just habits? And is just reading a research paper’s abstract enough to go on?
Prerna Dangi | Finding Her Power
Prerna’s biggest goal of all — and the one she’s certainly dedicating the most to — is to continue building an empowered community of female climbers in India.
Breaking Beta | What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?
Examining a study that collected measurements from 55 women, what does the data say about today’s female climbers?
Skills of Perception: Part 2
The intermediate climber’s problem with perception starts to arise when they can’t recall all of the solutions they have attempted during the problem solving process.
Skills of Perception: Part 1
If you want to get the most out of your skill work and practice, being able to remember what you tried is a great first step.
Breaking Beta | Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?
“You’re overthinking it.” But is your overthinking actually costing you the send?
Breaking Beta | Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold and Move Size?
Can how well we climb actually change how difficult a move looks to us?
Future Problems
Well-intentioned brainstorming about improving ourselves can quickly devolve into avoiding the challenge in front of us.
Breaking Beta | Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?
Can the measurement of contributing energy systems act as climbing performance indicators?
Why Did That Work So Well?
You’ll get more value out of replicating the times that things go well than you will from dwelling on the bad days.
Breaking Beta | Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
Can we effectively measure movement skills in climbing?
Breaking Beta | Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?
Can shoulder injuries be prevented through strength training? Or are they just an inevitable part of being a climber?
Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?
Why Strength Training Isn’t Making You Climb Harder
Climbers will dedicate years to getting “strong enough” when what they really need is to learn how to apply the strength they already have.
Better Call Paul | International Rock Climbing Research Association Test Battery
Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces and assesses a battery of ten tests designed specifically to measure climbing performance.
Better Call Paul | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing
How does the male/female performance gap in climbing compare to those in sprinting and distance running?