Ep. 156: Troy Fauteux | Try Harder
Troy Fauteux tries harder than you do. In fact, his try hard skills might have gotten him up hard boulders before the mental skills were fully developed - but I have a feeling those are coming along just fine.
Before you listen to this episode, you should watch the below video. Give yourself 12 minutes of quiet time, and really watch. There’s a lot to unpack here. It’s fantastic. I’ve watched it approximately 35 times in the past few weeks.
Amazing. I can come up with at least 6 or 7 times I likely would have just dropped off of the boulder, choosing not to waste the energy and opting for a “better” attempt.
NOW go listen to the episode.
When you’re done, we’ve got another video for you to watch. Same kid, 3 weeks before sending his first V11. Same topout skills. Again, amazing. I bet I’ve watched this one 50 times.
During the 8th annual Joe’s Valley Festival, Kris sat down to talk to local legend and longtime crusher Steven Jeffery.
Both are important. Which is your default? Do you value the other?
It’s a thin line, and one that is tricky to navigate.
The legendary Professor Bill Ramsey talks getting older, sending anyway, and the effort required.
How often do you give 100%? REALLY give 100%? I make my living coaching climbers, and I seldom see a climber try their hardest. Myself included.
Hazel Findlay has a way of taking mental training concepts that can be tough to connect with and making them seem simple.
It took a ton of courage to completely overhaul a training routine that took him to 14d (9a), but he did it anyway.
But then it hit me… Techniques are just the language we use to name the combination of elements as they show up in usage.
No matter what technique, its success depends on getting the basic elements right: Position, Tension, Rhythm, Commitment, and Effort.
I never thought I’d be recommending this, but some of y’all should be putting less effort into becoming technically better climbers.
Once you learn the power of good tactics it can be hard to step away from them.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
Most of us have never given 100% to an attempt on a rock climb. Most of us just don’t know how.