The High/Low Approach, Part II: AE Without Training the A
When I read that Charlie Francis trained his sprinters by avoiding AE training, I was a little taken aback, and extremely skeptical.
The High/Low Approach
I've scrapped the old model of periodization training in favor of something known as High/Low Training.
This Post Brought To You By The Letter "D".
There are three components you must have if you expect to improve your climbing.
Season Update.
Spring has nearly yielded to the stifling heat and humidity of the jungle-like summer, and I've not posted a single update on how it's gone.
ATTACKtics: Projecting, Part III: Working
You've made the tough decision to commit. Now, to help you break this thing down to an inevitable send.
ATTACKtics: Projecting, Part II: The Approach
If you exercise a little patience, along with a few tricks and the right tactics, projecting something hard can be a rewarding process.
ATTACKtics: Projecting, Part I: Picking The Project
For those that have never undertaken a project, it can be intimidating just to decide on the right route.
Why Climbing Is Bad For Your Health
One comment I often get is that a client wants to train hard and be dedicated to climbing while remaining healthy and injury free.
Keeping Perspective for the Weekend Warrior.
It's easy to get discouraged by how quickly the pros seem to put down the hardest projects.
Reader Questions: The Clock is Ticking.
Arthur writes: I'm a month away from a climbing trip… What is the optimal program for overall climbing fitness?
Campusing = Healthy Elbows?
Campusing is precisely how my first round of bad elbow problems began.
Yesterday I Went Shopping. Talk Is Still Cheap.
I get it. Talking is easier than doing. What it isn't, however, is nearly as satisfying.
Pushing Through The Tweaks, Twinges, and Pains: Shoulders
Shoulders are a tricky joint. A big muscular shoulder means absolutely nothing when it comes to injuries.
Pushing Through the Tweaks, Twinges, and Pains: Fingers and Elbows
All of us are going to get hurt at some point.
ATTACKtics: The Warm Up.
More important than your coffee in the morning - ok, maybe not quite that important - is how you warm up.
Don't Squash The Banana: Commitment
Nate snapped the banana in half. Clean break, right through the middle. Like a ninja.