Moving Past Goals. An Update.

Goals are a funny thing.  Unless they are huge, audacious, once in a lifetime goals, we who make a habit of setting and reaching for goals often just check one off and replace it with a new one.  This doesn't mean that they aren't meaningful, just that we're constantly striving to better ourselves. 

That's a good thing.

Before I've completely moved on to my next goals and deemed it too long ago to bother blogging about, I just wanted to type up a quick update on how it's going:

Shortly after putting my goals out there I put down 5.13 #48, a powerful 13b called "The Legend".  The next week I closed in a little further by putting down a long, pumpy (and very wet) 13a called "Taste The Rainbow".  Since #49 felt like a bit of a sure thing, I knew #50 needed to be something important to me, so why not kill two birds with one stone?  Over 3 half days of work I managed to put together another of my goals for the season, "Eternal Fire" (13d).  After doing it on a day with pretty perfect conditions, I have to admit that it's pretty low in the grade, but it's some of the best rock climbing I've ever done.  Absolutely stunning, and I'm proud to have it as my 50th.  The same day as my 50th, my climbing partners and fellow Power Company trainees all sent as well... Taylor put down his first 13b, Sarah sent her 12a project, and Tania handily crushed a 12a that had intimidated her.

Moving on, like we do.

Today, after watching my girlfriend destroy her V4 project, I packed up my finger-sized cams and made my way out to an old nemesis.  Ray Ellington and I had, 10 or so years ago, put a litttle effort into a steep, imposing crack we called "Mr. Get It On Jones."  It felt impossible to me back then, and after I had quit climbing for a few years, Ray stuck with it and nabbed the FA at 12c or 12d, depending on who you talk to.  It really is an impressive crack, and I wanted to go revisit a route that had intimidated me.

First go up it today was basically an aid climb.  While I did all the moves, they were all on TR after pulling on gear or other shenanigans.  Second go, I still couldn't shake the jitters, but I didn't pull on any gear, and got to the chains with 2 falls.

Before I left the ground for my third go, I made the decision to just go for it.  It had been a lot of years since I fell on gear, so I was a little nervous stepping on.  Pulling through the last move of the crux I popped off, a #1 Metolius blew out a small chunk of rock and I took a nice and easy fall, totally clearing my head.  I jumped back on below the crux and pulled through to the chains.

It felt good to get my trad legs back under me, and I expect that "Mr. Get It On Jones" will surrender on my next day on it.  Soon.

Of course, I also went back to "Swingline" and fell high in the crux again.  Surprise, surprise.  Good news is, that was my first day back on it, and it felt easier than ever, so this could be the season that I take 'em all down.  Maybe.

What I do know is that it's just getting started.

See you out there!

Kris author bio.png
Kris Hampton

A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering.  Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11. 

Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks.  He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com
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Don't Squash The Banana: Commitment

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Autumn. Maybe "Fall" isn't the best word...