Reader Questions: The Clock is Ticking.
Arthur writes: I'm a month away from a climbing trip… What is the optimal program for overall climbing fitness?
How Your Friends Are Holding You Back
There is NO single workout that any group of people can follow to get the optimum results for each of them.
Simplified. The New Plan.
My thoughts on training had gotten maybe too complicated. Too many exercises, not enough focus on the basics.
The Specialist: Routesetting with Chris Danielson
Professional setter Chris Danielson is the absolute go-to guy for any big comp or gym consulting project.
The Proof is in the Progression: Part II.
I've been friends with, climbed with, and offered training advice to Yasmeen Fowler for several years.
Reader Questions: Set The Stage.
Adam said: ...my gym sees a very minimal effort in route setting. Do you have any suggestions as far as conquering these stagnant plastic doldrums?
Reader Question: The Stopwatch, and Why It Should Be Your Best Friend.
Brett asks: What is the rationale behind the amount of rest between sets?
Specificity Within Training.
In a sport as complex as climbing, can you even begin to train simply? You can, but you have to boil it down to specifics.
The Summer/Autumn 2011 Plan.
Despite the fact that the climbing I most often do is steeped in endurance, I can never have too much power.
The False Ceiling: Has Your Skill Set Limited Your Training Gains?
The fact is, you WILL NEVER get to within earshot of your potential if you don't have a complete skill set.
Sinking The ARC
ARC (Aerobic Restoration and Capillarity) is the new buzz word around my gym.
Reader Questions: A Red River Plan.
A reader asks for opinions on his proposed training plan to prepare for climbing at the Red.
Reader Questions: New Place, New Plan. Keep it Personal.
Another reader writes in with questions to be answered.
Simplicity: Fitting the Pieces Together.
I've been asked by several friends and readers to give a glimpse into one of my sessions.
Reader Questions: System Boarding for Power
A reader asks: I'd love some advice on how to use the systems board and/or fingerboard to train power.
When Bouldering Doesn't Equal Power (...and when it does.)
If you really want to reap the benefits that bouldering can provide, you're gonna have to make sure that your muscles get the memo.
Reader Questions: Workout Plan
I’ll answer another great question from a reader about their training plan.
He SAID, She SAID.
The SAID Principle is one of the simplest, most important concepts in sports training.