Breaking Beta | Does Stretching Result in Power Loss?
Does static stretching really reduce strength and power?
What When How to Train | Sport Climbing in the New River Gorge
The best sport climbing in the US? New River climbers would argue that the streaky orange sandstone cliffs of West Virginia are home to just that.
How to Train Contact Strength | A Spectrum of Exercises for Climbers
A spectrum of exercises to train contact strength.
Episode 116: Not So Reckless Abandon with Kyra Condie
I had the opportunity to sit down and chat with one of the most exciting comp climbers to watch: recent Pan American Combined Champion Kyra Condie.
Episode 40: BONUS EPISODE: Logical Progression: Part II with Steve Bechtel
BONUS EPISODE! We're giving this one to you guys for free as an example of what you could get as a patron of the podcast.
Episode 39: Logical Progression: Part I with Steve Bechtel
Steve Bechtel has a new book out: "Logical Progression: Using Non Linear Periodization for Year Round Climbing Performance."
Episode 36: Proven Plans with Blake Cash
Coach Blake Cash and I discuss our new Proven Plans, how they came about, where their value lies, and what we've learned from them.
Video: Limit Bouldering In Depth
Limit (or Max) Bouldering is a tough exercise for many people to connect with, and is probably the most misunderstood exercise in your training plan.
Strength Training: The 4 Basic Movements You Should Be Doing.
Simply put, strength training should be a key part of your training, but not your entire plan.
Campusing, Part I: For Power - Big Rungs, Big Moves
The campus board's bad reputation arises from misuse.
System Boarding, Part I: Why and How
I test my theory that a better way to system board for power would be to treat it more like bouldering, but on mirror-image symmetrical walls.
The High/Low Approach, Part IV: Falling Into The Middle
The High/Low Approach to training for climbing is much more challenging than first meets the eye.
Simplified. The New Plan.
My thoughts on training had gotten maybe too complicated. Too many exercises, not enough focus on the basics.
An Epiphany.
Can you simultaneously be in an intense training cycle and realistically expect to perform your best? Doubtful.
The Summer/Autumn 2011 Plan.
Despite the fact that the climbing I most often do is steeped in endurance, I can never have too much power.
Reader Questions: A Red River Plan.
A reader asks for opinions on his proposed training plan to prepare for climbing at the Red.
The Importance of Vision.
I realized not long ago that it was quite difficult to set problems for myself that are at or above my limit.
Simplicity: Fitting the Pieces Together.
I've been asked by several friends and readers to give a glimpse into one of my sessions.
Reader Questions: System Boarding for Power
A reader asks: I'd love some advice on how to use the systems board and/or fingerboard to train power.