FOCUS | Q & A Part 2: Movement Solutions, Finding Better Beta, and Toe Hooks vs. Heel Hooks
In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs even deeper into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. He’ll talk about how you can track your own improvement, if and how your movement focus should change when training for sport climbing vs. bouldering, how to start training movement after coming off a break from climbing, and more. He’ll give some suggestions on how to improve your pacing and rhythm, and attempt to help us understand some of climbing’s more elusive skills: toe and heel hooking.
This is Part 2 so be sure to check out Part 1, if you haven't already!
Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course by:
Becoming a Patron (and Get Bonus Episodes!)
EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
The Bouldering Process | Flight of the Antelope (V10)
The Process of Dealing with Fear While Bouldering
CONFLICTED | Boards as Movement Assessment Tools
The #1 Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves
Contrast Warm Up (aka Sloth Monkeys) Drill
Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast Drill
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
CHAPTERS
(00:00) Intro
(03:06) Finding the Best Beta
(09:12) Strength vs. Movement
(09:55) Heel Hooks vs. Toe Hooks
(11:05) The Mystery of Toe Hooks
(18:08) How to Coach Toe Hooks
(22:07) How to Know You’re Improving
(27:56) The Best Level to Learn Movement
(28:58) How to Know What to Work On
(31:00) How to Improve Pacing and Rhythm
(36:37) How to Improve at Scary Moves
(41:24) Movement to Focus On Pre-Trip
(43:46) False Start Hover Drill
(48:35) Movement Work After a Break From Climbing
(51:40) We’re Thinking of Movement Backwards
(55:11) Outro
LISTEN ON YOUR PODCAST APP OF CHOICE
We’re a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
