Can you simultaneously be in an intense training cycle and realistically expect to perform your best?  Doubtful. 

What are YOU changing for 2012?  What are your climbing and training goals this year?

I've been friends with, climbed with, and offered training advice to Yasmeen Fowler for several years.

You'll remember Taylor Frohmiller from the incomplete case studies we tried in the spring.

Adam said: ...my gym sees a very minimal effort in route setting. Do you have any suggestions as far as conquering these stagnant plastic doldrums?

After much deliberation over a list of about 25, I've decided on the 5 ways I see experienced climbers derail their progression.

How do you climb once you've already taken on a massive pump? That's where the CAP comes in.  Climbing After Pumped. 

When I began training, I was clueless. What I did know is that I wanted to get better.

One year today.  We're gettin old already.  Thanks to everybody who's been a part of it.

I hear them coming from every corner of the gym… excuses.

Anonymous said:What are you doing in terms of forearms, the weakest link for probably 99% of climbers?

Build the muscles, then ask them to work harder... that's the plan.

I rarely get frustrated about a rock climb, but on my final day on "Ghost Dance", I grew far more upset than I ever thought I would.

However, there is something about redpointing that goes much deeper.

I've been here in Lander for 9 days, and have spent some quality time with a couple of different projects.

Rob asks: When performing 4x4's or any type of interval training I always question what my rest interval should be?

Brett asks: What is the rationale behind the amount of rest between sets?

The core is the engine that drives every performance on the rock.

"You have the key, right?" "What key?" "The key to the route.  You know what you need to do.  Do it."

In a sport as complex as climbing, can you even begin to train simply? You can, but you have to boil it down to specifics.