Simplicity: Fitting the Pieces Together.
I've been asked by several friends and readers to give a glimpse into one of my sessions.
Kicking Off the Season In Style.
A brief update on my recent 2 day trip into the Dirty South to wrestle with some gorgeous pebbles.
Reader Questions: System Boarding for Power
A reader asks: I'd love some advice on how to use the systems board and/or fingerboard to train power.
Big Gains Come In Small Packages.
I have a gift for you. It often comes in a very small package. We call it success.
Winter Goals and Southern Slopers.
I only now have begun cobbling together a wish list of outdoor problems for the winter.
The End Draws Near, and a New Beginning Is Upon Us: Goals and Lessons Learned.
It's by aiming for harder-to-hit targets that we learn the little lessons we need to improve ourselves.
When Bouldering Doesn't Equal Power (...and when it does.)
If you really want to reap the benefits that bouldering can provide, you're gonna have to make sure that your muscles get the memo.
Reader Questions: Onsighting
Tom writes: I'm primarily interested in raising my trad onsite level...
Reader Questions: Workout Plan
I’ll answer another great question from a reader about their training plan.
The Obsessive Climbers Guide to Taking A Step Back
Something funny happened that’s never happened to me on a route... I regressed.
Reader Questions: The Working Class Jedi
Over the past few years I've learned many secrets about how to train more efficiently as a weekend warrior.
He SAID, She SAID.
The SAID Principle is one of the simplest, most important concepts in sports training.
The Chains That Bind Us
Fact is, seeing the "chains" as the sole representation of success is holding you back.
Reader Questions: Know When To Hold 'Em,...
A reader brings up a great debate about sprinting vs. resting.
Recovery: Part 2
I'd say I never "train" recovery anymore... I now only do short "tuneups" immediately before and during "the season".
Great Pyramids
I was first introduced to the idea of the "pyramid" by one of Eric Horst's excellent training manuals.