Campusing = Healthy Elbows?
Campusing is precisely how my first round of bad elbow problems began.
Yesterday I Went Shopping. Talk Is Still Cheap.
I get it. Talking is easier than doing. What it isn't, however, is nearly as satisfying.
Pushing Through The Tweaks, Twinges, and Pains: Shoulders.
Shoulders are a tricky joint. A big muscular shoulder means absolutely nothing when it comes to injuries.
Pushing Through the Tweaks, Twinges, and Pains: Fingers and Elbows.
All of us are going to get hurt at some point.
ATTACKtics: The Warm Up.
More important than your coffee in the morning - ok, maybe not quite that important - is how you warm up.
Don't Squash The Banana: Commitment
Nate snapped the banana in half. Clean break, right through the middle. Like a ninja.
Selective Learning: The Short-Sighted Approach
You can almost always find a reason to continue training the short-sighted way.
How Your Friends Are Holding You Back
There is NO single workout that any group of people can follow to get the optimum results for each of them.
Bare Naked Hangboarding
Heading into this summer of training, I've made some drastic changes for the simpler concerning the hangboard.
Simplified. The New Plan.
My thoughts on training had gotten maybe too complicated. Too many exercises, not enough focus on the basics.
Training Wheels: How to Climb Harder than the Other Newbs
Newbs, rejoice! You get a whole post. A short one, but your very own set of training wheels.
Climb Better Faster: The Magic Bullet
So how do you get better faster? There's a simple answer. You don't.
The Specialist: Angie Payne on Pressure, Performance, and Possibilities.
“At that point, I realized that I was climbing because I wanted to.”
The Specialist: Routesetting with Chris Danielson
Professional setter Chris Danielson is the absolute go-to guy for any big comp or gym consulting project.
The Specialist: Hangboarding with Ryan Palo
Should I be investing more time and focus on the hangboard and other sport specific exercises? Ryan Palo answers.
An Epiphany.
Can you simultaneously be in an intense training cycle and realistically expect to perform your best? Doubtful.
The Proof is in the Progression: Part II.
I've been friends with, climbed with, and offered training advice to Yasmeen Fowler for several years.
The Proof is in the Progression: Part I. (Case Study Update)
You'll remember Taylor Frohmiller from the incomplete case studies we tried in the spring.
Reader Questions: Set The Stage.
Adam said: ...my gym sees a very minimal effort in route setting. Do you have any suggestions as far as conquering these stagnant plastic doldrums?
Train Wreck: 5 Ways to Derail Your Training
After much deliberation over a list of about 25, I've decided on the 5 ways I see experienced climbers derail their progression.