Selective Learning: The Short-Sighted Approach
Through many conversations about training with friends and other climbers, I've discovered one common thread - you can almost always find a reason to continue training the short-sighted way that you have been.
What I mean, is that if you get attached to your method of training, the method that has worked for years and gotten you to where you are (and where you've been for five seasons), then you're probably missing out on some great advice. That is, of course, unless your method is to constantly look for new methods and target new weak areas in your climbing. If that's you, you can just skip this piece. If you're the one who has done exactly the same workout for years, and have been stuck at the same grades for years, then you may want to read on.
Just be advised that you might not read exactly what you hope…
WANT MORE? READ THE REST IN: The Hard Truths: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber
Skaters do one important thing much better than climbers: they chase mastery instead of success.
It's exactly the same amount of challenging for you no matter what number anyone attaches to it.
How often do you give 100%? REALLY give 100%? I make my living coaching climbers, and I seldom see a climber try their hardest. Myself included.
While in the gym, for the most part, boulderers are closer than sport climbers to training the correct way.
It's easy to get discouraged by how quickly the pros seem to put down the hardest projects.
I get it. Talking is easier than doing. What it isn't, however, is nearly as satisfying.
Nate snapped the banana in half. Clean break, right through the middle. Like a ninja.
You can almost always find a reason to continue training the short-sighted way.
There is NO single workout that any group of people can follow to get the optimum results for each of them.
Newbs, rejoice! You get a whole post. A short one, but your very own set of training wheels.
So how do you get better faster? There's a simple answer. You don't.
After much deliberation over a list of about 25, I've decided on the 5 ways I see experienced climbers derail their progression.
I hear them coming from every corner of the gym… excuses.
The fact is, you WILL NEVER get to within earshot of your potential if you don't have a complete skill set.
Our egos are ruthless. I've seen climbers stop a workout early because they didn't want to "look bad".
Fact is, seeing the "chains" as the sole representation of success is holding you back.
There’s A LOT of great information out there on how to climb harder. But it’s tough to sort through…
Do you really have terrible willpower? Or are you surrounded by distractions and obstacles?
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
Redpointing is an ultimate success built on the backs of many failures.