Episode 99: Setting for the Future with Tonde Katiyo
I've heard Tonde Katiyo described as a ninja, a samurai, Buddha and Yoda, among other ethereal, higher level beings. Though Tonde is definitely a human, those descriptions aren't necessarily wrong.
In conversation it's quickly evident that Tonde has put quite a bit of thought and care into his craft. He approaches it with both a pragmatism and creativity that often don't exist together. Partly because of this juxtaposition, many in the routesetting industry seem to look to Tonde for their cues, and he doesn't give answers lightly.
Instead, he asks questions.
Tonde and I sat down at the Climbing Wall Association Summit to discuss his vision for setting... both present and future. We dig into his ideas concerning circuits, the RIC (risk, intensity, complexity) Scale, the silent partnership between climber and setter, and art versus design.
If you came here looking for answers, you may not find them. What you will likely find are more questions. According to Tonde Katiyo, those may be the best answers of all.
Kris sits down with shaper and setter Roy Quanstrom, of Tension Climbing to talk about his latest holds and more.
Andy Leung believes in setting for growth of the community.
Taylor Fragomeni shares lessons she’s learned from routesetting and coaching as a female.
On race, mentorship, tough conversations, and making art.
Ayo Sopeju is a competitive climber, head setter at The Minneapolis Bouldering Project, and an artist who takes the utmost care with his work.
Shaper/setter Tonde Katiyo has put quite a bit of thought and care into his craft. He approaches it with both a pragmatism and creativity that often don't exist together.
Routesetting is hard and hard on the body. Jonathan Brandt has continued to improve as a climber while simultaneously running the setting crew at Climb Nashville.
We all like to call climbing an art form, but very few of us take it to the high degree that Jason Kehl does.
Is bringing your phone into the climbing gym worth it? We're conflicted…
If we want to assess our climbing movement skills over time, are the standardized boards the best option? We're conflicted…
There are aspects of climbing outside that lead us into learning specific things that we don't necessarily find as easily indoors.
Forty years ago, Miguel Ventura moved from Connecticut to Slade, Kentucky and started what was then known as The Rainbow Door, and has become an icon to climbers all over the world.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
Our very own coach Jess West provides valuable insight as to how setters can smartly and safely train for their goals.