Guest Post with Aicacia Young, RDN: How To Delay Muscle Fatigue
There is actually a difference between the muscle burn that you feel during intense exercise and true muscle fatigue.
The Top 5 Bad Gym Habits of Sport Climbers
While in the gym, for the most part, boulderers are closer than sport climbers to training the correct way.
You Aren't Actually Training.
You aren’t training. You’re working out. There’s a difference.
System Boarding, Part II: What
How tall, how wide, what angle, and perhaps most difficult, which holds and in which configuration?
System Boarding, Part I: Why and How
I test my theory that a better way to system board for power would be to treat it more like bouldering, but on mirror-image symmetrical walls.
Of Shoulders, Elbows, and More To Come...
I know you've all been training hard, and I just want to be sure you aren't getting sidelined by some silly overuse injury.
High/Low Scheduling
I've gotten several questions about my schedule during my High/Low training so let's talk a little about how I created it.
The Cross-Training Dilemma
If you believe that cross-training will help you become a better climber, keep reading.
High/Low: Did it Work?
The question you all want to know: Being as I trained no power endurance, how did it affect my power endurance for the season?
The High/Low Approach, Part IV: Falling Into The Middle
The High/Low Approach to training for climbing is much more challenging than first meets the eye.
The High/Low Approach, Part III: Are You In or Are You Out?
I figured that it might be prudent to let people know whether or not the High/Low style of training is for you.
The High/Low Approach, Part II: AE Without Training the A
When I read that Charlie Francis trained his sprinters by avoiding AE training, I was a little taken aback, and extremely skeptical.
The High/Low Approach
I've scrapped the old model of periodization training in favor of something known as High/Low Training.
ATTACKtics: Projecting, Part III: Working
You've made the tough decision to commit. Now, to help you break this thing down to an inevitable send.
ATTACKtics: Projecting, Part II: The Approach
If you exercise a little patience, along with a few tricks and the right tactics, projecting something hard can be a rewarding process.
ATTACKtics: Projecting, Part I: Picking The Project
For those that have never undertaken a project, it can be intimidating just to decide on the right route.
Why Climbing Is Bad For Your Health
One comment I often get is that a client wants to train hard and be dedicated to climbing while remaining healthy and injury free.
Keeping Perspective for the Weekend Warrior.
It's easy to get discouraged by how quickly the pros seem to put down the hardest projects.
Reader Questions: The Clock is Ticking.
Arthur writes: I'm a month away from a climbing trip… What is the optimal program for overall climbing fitness?
