Episode 75: Self Worth and China Doll with Heather Weidner
Heather Weidner doesn't need an introduction, but this episode certainly does. When I recently watched a film made about Heather's ascent of China Doll, putting her into a small group of women to have climbed 14a on gear, I was left with a bad taste in my mouth. It seemed that given the current gender climate, the filmmakers, Jon Glassberg and Caroline Treadway, could have crafted a story that didn't depict Heather as so dependent on her husband, Chris Weidner, for not only support, but to also tell and show her how to climb the route. One friend suggested that the film should have been titled Mansplaining 5.14.
Shortly after, Heather wrote a blog post indicating that she felt similar upon seeing the film, and I knew I had to talk to her about it. The omissions, the contradictions, and the lessons.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
Allyson Gunsallus is a mom, climber, and director of an upcoming film series that will uncover the issues faced by climbers who are parents.
Today we REWIND to this conversation about parenting, identity, and climbing with the great Beth Rodden.
Don’t be fooled by Patty Law’s small frame and soft-spoken demeanor – she’s a fierce climber, mother, entrepreneur, and community cultivator.
Prerna’s biggest goal of all — and the one she’s certainly dedicating the most to — is to continue building an empowered community of female climbers in India.
Examining a study that collected measurements from 55 women, what does the data say about today’s female climbers?
How does the male/female performance gap in climbing compare to those in sprinting and distance running?
Our good friend Lauren Abernathy talks about the challenges of being a female coach in a male-dominated industry.
Juliet Hammer is no stranger to crushing double-digit boulders, and unfortunately, to dealing with internet haters, too.
Taylor Fragomeni shares lessons she’s learned from routesetting and coaching as a female.
Joslynn Corredor is helping women rediscover their athletic identity.
A personal perspective on body image as a climber, from Lauren Abernathy and Kelsey K. Sather.
Cancer survivor. Pathologist. Climber. Ninja Warrior. Favia Dubyk is a force.
Every pregnancy story is unique. I’m sharing my story because it’s not the story I thought I’d tell.
Recorded live at the 2018 CWA Summit, a discussion about diversity and inclusion in the climbing industry.
Joslynn Corredor is the definition of strength and courage.
My perception of what I was capable of, what could be possible, how hard I can push myself, the belief, the confidence, was all very much changed through a mere three weeks of training.
Brown Girls Climb aims to promote and increase visibility of diversity in climbing by establishing community, encouraging leadership, and creating inclusive opportunities.
In 1998, Beth Rodden became the youngest woman to climb 5.14a. Fast forward 20 years, and Beth's website lists her as: Mother - Pro Climber - Writer.
A recent film made about Heather's ascent of China Doll, which put her into a small group of women to have climbed 14a on gear, left a bad taste in my and others’ mouths.
Marina Inoue is a 5'2" force to be reckoned with. She's the sweetest person you've ever met. Then she pulls onto the rock and crushes your project.
Kelsey K. Sather discusses her series of blog posts titled "The Work Behind the Body", a collection of interviews with female outdoor athletes in Bozeman, Montana.
If you've been around climbing long enough, you know someone who has struggled with an eating disorder.
Emily Tilden is a no-bullshit straight-shooter with a mental tenacity that is sometimes difficult to comprehend.
"Flash Foxy" founder Shelma Jun is an unapologetic force to be reckoned with.
Joy Black is a strength and climbing coach specializing in working with pregnant and postpartum climbers.
35 years after he realized one of his own dreams and jump started the dreams of so many others, we REWIND to this conversation with legend Paul Piana.
7 years later, almost to the day, that Tommy and Kevin topped out the Dawn Wall together, we REWIND to this conversation about belief and partnership with Tommy Caldwell.
Of all the people that I spoke with this year who were stuck in plateaus, many of them had the same thing in common: they climbed and trained alone.
Some say it doesn’t work. We disagree.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
Joy Black is a strength and climbing coach specializing in working with pregnant and postpartum climbers.