Don't Squash The Banana: Commitment
In the spring of 2011, while queued up beneath a 13d called "Ultraperm", I witnessed the very definition of commitment. No, it wasn't someone skipping 2 bolts and risking a ground fall just to send. That would be stupid. Instead, it was an act so casual that it didn't catch the eye of any of the 16 other people waiting for their burn. My friend (and now Power Company Climbing coach) Nate Drolet, in line just in front of me, asked his belayer if she wanted half of his banana. Of course she did, who wouldn't? Rather than peel it and break it off with his chalky, dirty fingers, or dig in his pack for a knife, Nate - wait for it - snapped the banana in half. Clean break, right through the middle. Like a ninja.
My first attempt at snapping a banana ended in, well, banana pudding. It wasn't even a very ripe banana. Problem was, I didn't commit. I didn't go for it. I backed off at the last second. You can't half-ass it when you're banana snapping, or you end up with unappetizing mush. No bueno.
You can plan every move you make. You can train harder and longer than anyone else. You might be the first person at the crag every day. None of it matters if you don't commit.
It's not uncommon to see climbers squash the banana on a difficult onsight or redpoint attempt, and it's easy to spot. The climber gets to the crux move, looks up, looks down, looks up again, sometimes shakes their head no, and they're off. If your partner says, "Take!" in the middle of a redpoint attempt for no apparent reason, they might be a chronic banana squasher. It happens everyday on tall boulder problems. These are the lapses in commitment that are readily apparent. This doesn't mean that they are easier to fix - just that you're more likely to get called out on them. It's the harder to spot lapses that are the most dangerous, and these generally follow a never-ending path paved with excuses…
WANT MORE? READ THE REST IN: The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber
Skaters do one important thing much better than climbers: they chase mastery instead of success.
It's exactly the same amount of challenging for you no matter what number anyone attaches to it.
How often do you give 100%? REALLY give 100%? I make my living coaching climbers, and I seldom see a climber try their hardest. Myself included.
While in the gym, for the most part, boulderers are closer than sport climbers to training the correct way.
It's easy to get discouraged by how quickly the pros seem to put down the hardest projects.
I get it. Talking is easier than doing. What it isn't, however, is nearly as satisfying.
Nate snapped the banana in half. Clean break, right through the middle. Like a ninja.
You can almost always find a reason to continue training the short-sighted way.
There is NO single workout that any group of people can follow to get the optimum results for each of them.
Newbs, rejoice! You get a whole post. A short one, but your very own set of training wheels.
So how do you get better faster? There's a simple answer. You don't.
After much deliberation over a list of about 25, I've decided on the 5 ways I see experienced climbers derail their progression.
I hear them coming from every corner of the gym… excuses.
The fact is, you WILL NEVER get to within earshot of your potential if you don't have a complete skill set.
Our egos are ruthless. I've seen climbers stop a workout early because they didn't want to "look bad".
Fact is, seeing the "chains" as the sole representation of success is holding you back.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
Redpointing is an ultimate success built on the backs of many failures.