Guest Post with Aicacia Young, RDN: How To Delay Muscle Fatigue
There is actually a difference between the muscle burn that you feel during intense exercise and true muscle fatigue.
The Top 5 Bad Gym Habits of Sport Climbers
While in the gym, for the most part, boulderers are closer than sport climbers to training the correct way.
The Strawberry Roan
I teamed up with my good friend Leif Gasch to try and put down an unfinished Todd Skinner project called "The Strawberry Roan."
Books for Climbers: Nutrition and Strength
I wanted to give you guys and girls the heads up on these two books so that you can get your hands on them.
Review: Bumper Pads from Vision Climbing
I needed bad holds. BAD holds. And so, the Bumper Pads from Vision Climbing.
You Aren't Actually Training.
You aren’t training. You’re working out. There’s a difference.
Review: Transgression Hangboard by Eva Lopez
The Transgression and Progression Hangboards by Eva Lopez, are the first in some time to depart from the "little bit of every grip type" design.
Training Beta Podcast
Just wanted to give you guys a heads up: if you aren't already following the Training Beta podcast, the new episode, which is a conversation I had with Neely, is up! Check it out!
System Boarding, Part II: What
How tall, how wide, what angle, and perhaps most difficult, which holds and in which configuration?
They Like Me! They Really Like Me!
For all of you Facebookers, we now have an official Facebook page.
This is Where My Time Goes...
This is not about training. Fact is, I just wanted to share.
System Boarding, Part I: Why and How
I test my theory that a better way to system board for power would be to treat it more like bouldering, but on mirror-image symmetrical walls.
Review: Acid Rain Pinches from Vision Climbing
Vision Climbing sent over a set of their Acid Rain Pinches for our reviewing pleasure.
Endurance Training for Climbers Looking to Break the 5.11 or 5.12 Barriers
Our first training program is live and available for purchase for just $24 on TrainingBeta.com!
Introducing: TrainingBeta
Neely was looking for trainers to write training programs, so we talked out the specifics, and I got to work.
Of Shoulders, Elbows, and More To Come...
I know you've all been training hard, and I just want to be sure you aren't getting sidelined by some silly overuse injury.
High/Low Scheduling
I've gotten several questions about my schedule during my High/Low training so let's talk a little about how I created it.
Engine Room Sneak Peak and Upcoming Reviews
Our new training space, "The Engine Room," is mostly complete, and it is exactly what we'd been missing.
Review: Gimme Kraft!
I got my hands on this new book from Patrick Matros and Dicki Korb, trainers and coaches of Alex Megos.