Builder | Lucia Li and Noah Steinberg Are Pushing Their Sport Climbing Limits

 
 

Lucia Li and Noah Steinberg are an up-and-coming climbing power couple. From Michigan, they call the Red River Gorge their home climbing area, and they are making sure to cement their place there. After using one of our Ebook training plans, they both had breakout seasons – and then they upped the ante the following season without any additional training. 

In this BUILDER episode, we discuss the plans they chose, how the training went, how they fit it into their busy lives, and ultimately, the details of the two seasons where they saw big progress, including how getting bit by a bat while on route might just give you superpowers.

Builder: Lucia Li

Age: 28
Occupation: Small Business Owner
Height: 5’5”
Ape Index: -0.5
Years Climbing: 11
Top Climbing Grade: 5.13c
Climbing Superpower: High feet, pockets
Climbing Kryptonite: Big pinch slopers, dynos
Plan, Product, or Service Used: Climb 5.14

Photo: Eric Laabs Photography

Builder: Noah Steinberg

Age: 30
Occupation: Theoretical Physicist
Height: 5’9”
Ape Index: +0
Years Climbing: 5.5
Top Climbing Grade: 5.13b
Climbing Superpower: Lock-offs
Climbing Kryptonite: Slabs
Plan, Product, or Service Used: Climb 5.14

Photo: Eric Laabs Photography

EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Tyler Algeo and Scott Pagel | Being Good Climbing Partners

REMIX: EFFORT

The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become A Better Climber

Proven Plans

Ebook Training Plans

The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement course

SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

CHAPTERS

00:00:00 | Intro

00:01:34 | Meeting Noah and Lucia

00:10:39 | Goals and Choosing a Plan

00:20:34 | Fitting Training Into Life

00:29:39 | How Did the Training Go?

00:36:07 | Did Anything Surprise You?

00:42:42 | How Much Do You Get Outside?

00:49:35 | How Did the Training Show Up?

00:53:39 | Fall Season After Training

00:58:15 | Bit by a Bat on Route

01:06:10 | Spring Season After Training

01:23:05 | Wrap Up


LISTEN ON YOUR PODCAST APP OF CHOICE

 
 

We’re a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Kris Hampton

A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering.  Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11. 

Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks.  He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com
Previous
Previous

CONFLICTED | Indoor Beta Videos

Next
Next

I’m Likely to Fail