Southern Update.
The end of January has arrived, and that leaves me, weather permitting, with 1 or 2 more bouldering trips to the Southeast. Maybe 3, if Kentucky is still iced over come March.
In my last post I gave you a little tidbit of how the trip went, but I thought I should give you a proper update. Besides stepping onto the incredible "Golden Harvest" for the first time, I used the last trip as a time to feel out more of the hard boulders on my list. Day 1 was a short day... we drove 6.5 hours and got out of the car headed straight for "The Vagina". It was nearly over in 15 minutes, as I stuck the crux move easily. Oddly, my heal popped out of the perfect heelhook. Hmmm... dumb mistake. I start over, stick the move again, heel pops out. What the hell? I look under the roof, and there is a HUGE tickmark pointing about 4 inches in front of the heelhook. I was never even in the damn thing. I reticked it, came back the next morning, and made quick work of it, for a long awaited send of a Southern super-classic.
Andrew Gearing on "Helicopter Sit" Photo by Allen Chaney.
"Golden Harvest" was next, and I suprised myself by touching the crux hold in a few tries. That's 2.5 moves on a 5 move boulder. Halfway there. The neverending number/ticklist spray coming from the guys who were there before me soon took it's toll, and energy drained; I moved on after 4 or 5 attempts. After lunch and a quick send of a fun V6 called "Drunken Barn Dance", I made my way over to "Helicopter Sit", which weighs in at hard V8/easy V9. Light fading along with my energy, I came agonizingly close to the send in just a few tries. I'll definitely be back for that one.
Senya Iaryguine on "Riverdance".
Day 3 was all about "Riverdance", one of the best looking V9's I've seen. It's in an area known by several names: Dayton Pocket, Dayton Roof, Laurel Falls, or Laurel Snow. No matter what you choose to call it, it's one of the nicest places I've ever climbed. The boulders are spaced out along a beautiful trail that follows a small whitewater river. "Riverdance" sits right on the river, in a perfect little alcove. Originally climbed by the Mayor of the South, Ronnie Jenkins, I was anxious to give it a try. It didn't disappoint. The stone is superb, the movement amazing, and the setting couldn't be any better. The only thing lacking was the send. After two hard days, I was powered down, and came inches from the send after about an hour or two of work. "Riverdance" is currently the boulder I want the most, and will be my first stop on my next trip to the Southeast.
As "The Vagina" was one of the boulders on my all time wishlist, I put together a short video to document it. Enjoy.
Kris and Nate discuss the new climbing film, Soudain Seul, and lessons from it that we can use in our own climbing.
Lowball boulders, while not as proud, can still teach us new movement, new ways to utilize tension, and force us into finding new techniques.
I never thought I’d be recommending this, but some of y’all should be putting less effort into becoming technically better climbers.
Does kneebarring hard boulders make you stronger? We're conflicted.
Kris and Nate sit down to discuss some of the perks and pitfalls of climbing in today’s modern mega gyms.
Looking for a winter bouldering destination with endless rock, hosting classic problems of every grade? Look no further than Chattanooga.
Who is stronger: sport climbers or boulderers?
100 Boulders and Mango Tango: Kerry Scott gets after it. Consistently.
Hidden in the desert outside El Paso, Texas lies an oasis for boulderers and wildlife alike: Hueco Tanks.
Useful data for coaches and climbers.
Questions from listeners about home climbing walls and spray walls.
A completely subjective list of the objectively best double digit boulders in the US from Eric Jerome.
Improvement comes from challenges, not from the number they are given. If you focus on being challenged and trying hard, then the numbers will follow.
If you’re lacking psych, and have some extra time on your hands (is this all of us***?) here is a curated list of great content to keep you motivated in the coming weeks.
Bouldering is the best training for sport climbing. Or is it?
When we get geographically close to the top of a boulder, we believe that means we're close to the send. Sometimes, yes. But oftentimes, no.
Dark Horse. Climber's Climber. Undercover Crusher. Whatever you want to call it, today's guest Brian Antheunisse may be it.
We live in an age of fast food bouldering. Gym boulders are turned over more frequently than ever before. You can try 2,500 different V7’s on a Moon Board before you have to move on to V8.
We sit down in Hueco Tanks with bouldering pioneer John Sherman to discuss California Condors, his lengthy list of accomplishments, and his most infamous creation: the V scale.
Peter Bonamici is a midwest bouldering legend.
We all like to call climbing an art form, but very few of us take it to the high degree that Jason Kehl does.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
This week we're watching In Sequence: Katie Lamb and the Craft of Hard Bouldering from Patagonia Films!