Bouldering Tactics 101: The Power Spot (Video)
Any time we encounter a difficult move, we spend a huge amount of time learning the starting position and the initial trajectory, but how often do we take the time to learn the end position and the correct finishing trajectory?
Not to mention, throwing yourself at a move that feels impossible can be counter productive if you have to try so hard that you aren't able to notice the subtleties. It’s just not the best way for us to learn.
Getting assistance in the form of a power spot can not only let you feel HOW to do the move, but teach your body the correct path through space, help you realize which muscles to fire and when, and help build confidence for that move and subsequent moves. Plus, it saves valuable energy that could potentially be used later in the session to send.
It might be embarrassing to ask someone to push you through a move, but it won't be embarrassing when you're the one who tops out.
Kris and Nate discuss the new climbing film, Soudain Seul, and lessons from it that we can use in our own climbing.
100 Boulders and Mango Tango: Kerry Scott gets after it. Consistently.
Improvement comes from challenges, not from the number they are given. If you focus on being challenged and trying hard, then the numbers will follow.
When we get geographically close to the top of a boulder, we believe that means we're close to the send. Sometimes, yes. But oftentimes, no.
Dark Horse. Climber's Climber. Undercover Crusher. Whatever you want to call it, today's guest Brian Antheunisse may be it.
Jon Glassberg recently wrote in a blog that, “Climbing double digits is an attainable goal for any serious climber.” We agree.
Somehow, I didn’t fail. On my 50th birthday, I managed to scrape my way up my one-hundredth 5.13.
I don’t set goals so that I can achieve them. I set goals so that I can chase them.
If we’re always compensating for some weakness or skill we don’t yet have, how will we ever improve?
Training principles are important, but when they creep into performance, your climbing will suffer. Nearly every time.
Climber performance metrics only tell a small part of a much more complex human story.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
This week we're watching In Sequence: Katie Lamb and the Craft of Hard Bouldering from Patagonia Films!