Ten Sleep 5.11 | Trip Prep Plan

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For climbers looking to break into or solidify their performance in the 5.11 grade range, specifically at Ten Sleep.

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For climbers looking to break into or solidify their performance in the 5.11 grade range, specifically at Ten Sleep.

For climbers looking to break into or solidify their performance in the 5.11 grade range, specifically at Ten Sleep.

TEN SLEEP 5.11 is a 7 week training plan written for climbers looking to break into or solidify their performance in the 5.11 grade range, specifically at Ten Sleep. This program is designed to train the skills, strengths, and tactics needed to climb at the 5.11 level in Ten Sleep.

You’ll need access to climbing (boulders required, routes optional) and a hangboard.

During this training plan, you'll go through 2 phases separated by a Deload week, with weekly sessions centered on 3 main energy system:

  • Strength/Power: This will involve working on projects that resemble the technical, crimpy style of Ten Sleep climbing.

  • Power Endurance: This will incorporate more challenging moves in a row, with a focus on maintaining skill and composure on technical terrain.

  • Endurance: Building low end endurance on easier terrain will allow you to recover more quickly on route, a vital skill for Ten Sleep climbing.


The program generally expects you are able to fit in 3-4 training sessions a week, 1-2 hours per session (which can also include some outdoor climbing) but is flexible enough to be adapted to fit tight schedules.

Photo: Ryan Willard