Episode 78: PSA | Don't Believe The Hype
With the amount of available information on training for climbing growing rapidly, it becomes increasingly harder to know what is worth keeping and what's trash.
I've been considering this type of episode for some time, but when I read a recent article from Climbing Magazine, I knew I had to do it. Among many uninformed statements in the article is one that states "a good way to build power is to try difficult moves when you're already tired."
Not only is this incorrect, but it's dangerous.
I was all set to tear this article apart. Instead, I've decided to turn this into something positive, and make it a learning experience for all of us. Not everyone reading the article - or any article, post, book, whatever - can easily recognize which information is worth saving and what should be thrown out, so let's explore several ways that you can use common sense to recognize when to seek your information elsewhere.
Don't believe the hype.
It's easy to ignore catch phrases and cliches, but maybe you should stop and think the next time you hear one.
Words are powerful. Not only to inspire, but also to harm.
Face it: the truth is that the pros are better than you. Here’s why.
We live in an age of fast food bouldering. Gym boulders are turned over more frequently than ever before. You can try 2,500 different V7’s on a Moon Board before you have to move on to V8.
Nate and I sit down to discuss how we feel about climbing gym grades. Do they matter? Should they be taken seriously?
With the amount of available information on training for climbing growing rapidly, it becomes increasingly harder to know what is worth keeping and what's trash.
If you want to be physically prepared for rock climbing, you need to concern yourself with the following components:
As we've taken our workshops to gyms across the country, we've seen lots of cool, positive things happen, but we've also seen lots of mistakes being made.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
Whether a pro, writer, filmmaker or coach, Taylor has some advice for you.