You’re scrolling Instagram or Youtube or listening to the newest podcast episodes, and now, just today, you’ve got three new finger strength protocols to try, you learned that your footwork needs overhauling, you’re warming up all wrong, and you have to buy a few new training devices.

And you have to implement it all right now, because, well, you just do. It doesn’t matter that you have no idea if anything has worked – or will work – because the next thing could be the thing, and you’ve been plateaued and need to level up right now.

The good news is that you don’t have to stop consuming all of the information and trying new things and learning as much as possible.

You can keep at it. Collect it all.

But…

…I’m going to give you 5 really simple ways to improve your climbing, all of which have completely transformed countless people’s climbing. All methods that you can implement while you continue getting extra nerdy about the most optimal way to train. I’m also going to give you resources where you can go a little deeper into each of these.

Ok, before we get started, I need to say that I get it. As a coach of 15 years and a climber of 30 years who is passionate about improving, I understand this quest that you’re on.

There’s A LOT of great information out there on how to climb harder.

But it’s tough to sort through and figure out why we should do it, when we should do it, and who should actually be doing it in the first place.

And look, we’ve been part of the problem. But we’re changing course to be part of the solution. Connecting the dots instead of just collecting more dots. Explaining the context and the why, when, and who of any intervention we suggest. All 5 of the methods I’m going to lay out will work for every single climber. They’re simple, but not easy. If you can implement them all, you’ll get better without needing to know any of the latest popular finger strength protocols. But  I mean, you might as well learn those, too.

#1. Make the Training Easier to Do.

I don’t mean make the training easy. What I mean is that you should come up with a simple plan that hits your wants and needs, using equipment and facilities you have easy access to, and will fit into the available time you actually have. Because you might write the best, most optimal training plan ever written, but it won’t work if you don’t do it. 

If you just want someone else to do the planning for you, we’ve got Proven Plans built for every level sport climber and boulderer. You just show up and do the work.

#2. Connect the Dots.

We’re all experiencing information overload. Just by reading this, you’ve agreed to be inundated. Like I said, we’ve been part of the problem – and are now trying to help solve it – but it’s also up to you.

Don’t just collect the dots. Think critically about the things you hear, watch, and read, and how those things fit with all of the other things you’ve collected. I do this with all of the podcasts and videos we make, once a month, in our newsletter The Current.  

Because improving isn’t just about action. In the long term, it has to be about interaction.

#3. Interrogate Your Reasons. 

I know…

That protocol just doesn’t work for you.
You don’t have the time for movement practice.
You don’t actually need rest days or more sleep, that’s not why you’re constantly injured.

I hear you… But are these reasons? Or are they excuses?  I bet you know which they actually are.

I wrote about this in my book, The Hard Truth. You can get 20% off using the code POD. And all of the stories in this book are based on real climbers in real scenarios. Maybe it’s someone you know. Maybe it’s you.

#4. Climb More. 

I know what you’re thinking, That’s a lazy, copout answer. I agree! But here’s the thing:

While we have data from nearly 1,000 climbers that shows finger and pulling strength are among the top metrics that advanced and elite climbers have in common, you know what correlates even higher? Time spent climbing.

I don’t mean you should just do high-volume sessions. Instead, go to new areas with new rock and new styles and new hold types that make you a little uncomfortable. Or even new gyms with different setting. You’ll become more adaptable. You’ll solve problems faster. 

And if you have reasons as to why you can’t get in more climbing time, well, I’ll just refer you back to #3. 

And finally…

#5. Broaden Your Learning.

We've gone to great depths with finger strength – and for good reason – but when it comes to things like movement and tactics, we're still in the shallow end. And you can’t fully leverage your finger strength without great movement. Or either of those, without great tactics. So broaden what you’re considering important. This isn’t an either/or situation. No great climbers have only one of these dialed.

And I know these things are hard to quantify, which is why we’re working on a tool to assess your movement to help you know where to start, how to start, and who should be doing what. And when we’re done with that, we’re tackling tactics. Make sure you’ve subscribed to our monthly newsletter so that you’ll be the first to hear when things are available.

EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing

Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves

Taped Tips | Climb Taller AND Smaller

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become A Better Climber

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