Strength Training: The 4 Basic Movements You Should Be Doing.
Simply put, strength training should be a key part of your training, but not your entire plan.
Why the Daniel Woods 4x4 is Not a 4x4.
There are loads of pro-climber "training" videos out there that are at best, silly, and at worst, irresponsible.
Broken Wing: 28 Days Post Surgery (A Tale of Atrophy)
When you aren't using muscles, your body has zero interest in maintaining them.
Campusing, Part II: When and Why to Use the Smaller Rungs
Let's talk about when and why you might want to make the switch to using the smaller rungs.
Campusing, Part I: For Power - Big Rungs, Big Moves
The campus board's bad reputation arises from misuse.
Deadlifting for Climbing: Truth or Trend?
Climbers everywhere are doing it. But why? Will it make you a better climber?
Review: bäm! board from bäm! climbing
As far as I'm concerned, this is the product of the year. Innovation of the year.
Broken Wing: Post 1
I’m headed to the hospital for rotator cuff surgery, specifically to repair a full thickness labrum tear as well as a full thickness supraspinatus tear.
Review: "Winter" and "Noah" from Kilter Climbing Grips
When it comes to climbing holds, I'm currently singing the praises of Kilter Climbing Grips.
Guest Post with Aicacia Young, RDN: How To Delay Muscle Fatigue
There is actually a difference between the muscle burn that you feel during intense exercise and true muscle fatigue.
The Top 5 Bad Gym Habits of Sport Climbers
While in the gym, for the most part, boulderers are closer than sport climbers to training the correct way.
The Strawberry Roan
I teamed up with my good friend Leif Gasch to try and put down an unfinished Todd Skinner project called "The Strawberry Roan."
Books for Climbers: Nutrition and Strength
I wanted to give you guys and girls the heads up on these two books so that you can get your hands on them.
Review: Bumper Pads from Vision Climbing
I needed bad holds. BAD holds. And so, the Bumper Pads from Vision Climbing.
You Aren't Actually Training.
You aren’t training. You’re working out. There’s a difference.
Review: Transgression Hangboard by Eva Lopez
The Transgression and Progression Hangboards by Eva Lopez, are the first in some time to depart from the "little bit of every grip type" design.