The top.  The summit.  The chains.  No matter how you refer to it, success is often measured solely by whether or not you've sent.  Fact is, seeing the chains as the sole representation of success is holding you back.  And you.  And you.  

Last Tuesday, I went to Red River with my friend and climbing partner, Justin Riddell.  We're both excited about training, about climbing, and, well, about sending.  Justin had whittled his project, "The Return Of Darth Moll" (13b) down to the point where it seemed the only progress to make was to send, and that was his goal for the day.  As temperatures were still in the mid-high 80's, and my project, "Swingline" (13d) involves a few slopey, condition dependent crux holds, my goal was to try and onsight a 12d called "Mind Meld."

"The Return Of Darth Moll", like most lines at the Darkside, is in your face from the first move, and doesn't let up until bolt #4, where it culminates in the crux move: hitting a finicky side-pull from a tension demanding undercling, and unwinding out of it.  On his first run of the day, Justin hit the side-pull, barely.  He didn't quite get into the hold, and wasn't able to make the tough transition out of it.  However, it was progress, and he felt even closer to the goal of the day.

Up next, I planned my sequence on "Mind Meld", taking note of thumb prints to determine the direction of pull on the temperamental pockets, making decisions about where to clip the scary 3rd bolt, and coming up with a plan B for the cruxy pocket section.  I pulled on, climbed without hesitation, quickly found myself clipping the high 3rd bolt, and moved into territory I had misread from the ground.  I had to really fight through a hard to read sequence, and with fingers opening, faced one last big move to what I assumed was a jug leading to easier climbing.  I blew it.  My high right heel hook got in the way of my arm, stopping my momentum, and I just missed latching the jug.

Attempt #2:  Justin knows it's close and is gunning for the chains.  He climbs fast through the long intro sequence and just as he had planned, hits the move again.  And is stuck.  Again.

Attempt #3:  After a short rest, and feeling ready, Justin fires up to the undercling again.  This time he hits the side-pull solid.  And is stuck.  Again.  He digs in deeper, unwinds, and doesn't quite get to the next hold.  Knowing he doesn't have the juice to try again, he continues up the unrelenting top to keep those moves fresh in his mind for next Tuesday.

No chains, no summit, no send.  No parades or screaming, adoring fans.  We both failed.

Or did we? 

WANT MORE?
Find the complete essay in: The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber or listen to the episode below!